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# Lanzarote: a blast from the past illuminates the present
## The volcanic landscapes of Lanzarote have been inspiring visitors and
locals for hundreds of years - including the Canary Islands' most famous
artist, Cesar Manrique.
![Canary Islands: steamed up - Timanfaya visitor centre, Lanzarote][1]
Image 1 of 5
Canary Islands: steamed up - Timanfaya visitor centre, Lanzarote
![Canary Islands: Lanzarote - water poured down a pipe explodes to the surface
due to the volcanic heat below][2]
Image 1 of 5
Canary Islands: Lanzarote - water poured down a pipe explodes to the surface
due to the volcanic heat below
![Canary Islands: Museo del Campesino, Lanzarote][3]
Image 1 of 5
Canary Islands: Museo del Campesino, Lanzarote
![Canary Islands: Lanzarote-El Golfo-Laguna verde][4]
Image 1 of 5
Canary Islands: El Golfo Green Lagoon, the crater of an extinct volcano in
Lanzarote
![Canary Islands: volcanic rocks border on sculpted pools in Lanzarote][5]
Image 1 of 5
Canary Islands: volcanic rocks border on sculpted pools in Lanzarote
12:23PM GMT 28 Jan 2010
The landscape - or should that be moonscape? - of Lanzarote is its defining
glory. This is where the volcanic landscapes of the Canaries are at their most
surreal.
In geological terms, one of its most violent eruptions - in what is now the
Timanfaya National Park - is a very recent event. Describing the cataclysm,
the priest of the nearby town of Yaiza, Don Lorenzo Curbelo, wrote: 'On
September 1, 1730, between nine and 10 at night, the ground opened in
Timanfaya, two leagues from Yaiza… and an enormous mountain rose from the
bosom of the earth.'
The resulting 'lava sea' covered a quarter of the island and blotted out the
sun for six years. This area, now dubbed Las Montañas del Fuego, is one of the
island's most important attractions.
They were also the inspiration for Cesar Manrique, the Canary Islands' most
important painter, sculptor, architect, ecologist, landscape designer and all-
round guru. His epic works complement and include the textures, shapes and
colours of the volcanic landscape, revealing and even magnifying the harsh
beauty of nature's most violent creations.
A native of Lanzarote, Manrique left behind a legacy that stretches far beyond
the physical artefacts he created. The island's reputation for high-quality,
sustainable tourism stems from his influence and his aesthetic sense for the
built environment has permeated the culture.
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28 Jan 2010
* [Canary Islands: sun, sea and truly stunning skylines][7]
26 Jan 2010
* [Tenerife: an elegant land erupting with nature and history][8]
26 Jan 2010
* [La Palma: sitting pretty in starlight][9]
26 Jan 2010
* [Gran Canaria: an exotic blend of ancient and modern][10]
28 Jan 2010
* [La Gomera: a small corner of whistles and love][11]
26 Jan 2010
Buildings higher than two storeys are no longer allowed and the tradition of
painting window frames green in the interior of the island, while those around
the coast are blue, is fiercely upheld.
Particularly in Lanzarote, people are more aware of the extraordinary
environment and the impact it has had on the lives of the many different
peoples, tribes and nationalities who have passed through here. It is no
coincidence that Manrique's most famous monument commemorates the Spanish
artisanes (farm workers) who ground out a desperately hard life for centuries
right up until the time of Manrique's youth.
Prosperity, once unimagined, has arrived in recent decades through tourism but
the manner in which development has been so sensibly controlled suggests that
the islanders instinctively recognised that ultimately it is their unique
environment that has made them rich, just as it was once what kept them poor.
And what an environment it is. True, there are fewer beaches than on the other
islands but they are among the best in the Canaries. And for those who love
volcanic landscapes but draw the line at black-sand beaches, the shores around
Punta del Papagayo in the far south provide a welcome contrast.
In the north, there is also a renowned, very windy, three-mile golden surf
beach near Caleta de Famara. No sane person comes to Lanzarote without heading
to the lava fields of the Timanfaya National Park. It's a hugely sensitive
environment where a single footprint can last for years.
Walking trails in the lava flows are carefully controlled, but are all the
better for that. The best is the two-mile Ruta de Tremesana, but if you're not
feeling energetic the half-hour bus tour along the Ruta de los Volcanes,
designed by Manrique, is a fascinating ride.
The visitor centre is worth exploring, both for its panoramic views and a
demonstration of the power of the volcano. Outside at regular intervals, a
guide pours a bucket of water down a pipe into the ground, which explodes back
out again in a fine spray after encountering 400F (200C) temperatures just
20ft below the surface.
The accommodation and eating options are another aspect of island life that
complement the stylish way in which the Lanzaroteños approach life.
Playa Blanca in the south is the most glamorous of the resorts, with low-key
developments including the five-star Suite Hotel Princesa Yaiza. Most have
extensive pool areas as the beach area is not huge but the strands of Punta
del Papagayo are close by.
**Key Facts**
* Capital: Arrecife
* Size: 327 sq miles
* Population: 132,400
* Highest point: Peñas del Chache at 2,200ft
* Protected nature reserves: 13
* Website: [www.turismolanzarote.com][12]
**Island Highlights **
_**Cesar Manrique**_
The great artist, sculptor, architect and landscape designer created the
majority of his most famous creations on his home island. These include the
Jameos del Agua, a lava tube with a tidal lake, which is home to an endangered
species of miniature white crab and whose caverns have been converted into a
trademark Manrique experience.
He also designed the Ruta de los Volcanes and in the far north his Mirador del
Rio, built into the volcanic mountainside, has fine views over the
neighbouring island of La Graciosa and the Chinijo archipelago.
Manrique's most famous sculpture is the centrepiece of the Museo del
Campesino, which celebrates rural history, while the Jardin de Cactus has more
than 1,500 species of cactus.
Finally, don't miss his house in Tahiche, built into bubbles in the lava
field. As well as being an art gallery, it also the home of the Cesar Manrique
Foundation.
_**Cueva de Los Verdes **_
Created from the same fourmile lava tube that houses Manrique's Jameos del
Agua, these extensive caverns are a geological marvel whose colours, relief
and textures were enhanced by the sound and light show designed by local
artist, Jesus Soto.
The caves are also part of Lanzarote's history, protecting the islanders
against devastating pirate raids in the 16th and 17th centuries.
_**Timanfaya National Park**_
The Timanfaya eruptions of 1730-36 buried several villages as well as the most
fertile areas of the island.
Today, the volcano itself and the 'lava sea' that surrounds it dominate the
west of the island with some of the most surreal landscapes in the Canaries.
It was designated a National Park in 1974.
The Ruta de los Volcanes is a bus tour through the lava flows.
_**Museo Agricola El Patio **_
A recreation of the traditional life of the island's artisans as it was for
almost 500 years from the arrival of the Spanish to the modern era.
Complete with animals, windmill, workshops, chapel and wine press, the overall
impression may be idealised but it is also highly informative.
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[2]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01567/CANARY_P13-15_RM_0_1
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[3]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01567/CANARY_P13-15_RM_1_1
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