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# El Hierro: stunning views, rare lizards and big green ideas
## El Hierro is the smallest and least populated of the Canaries archipelago,
but no less worth visiting.
![Canary Islands: Canarian Wrestling][1]
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Canary Islands: Canarian Wrestling
![Canary Islands: Mirador de La Pena in El Hierro][2]
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Canary Islands: Mirador de La Pena in El Hierro
![Canary Islands: the trade winds bend sabina trees in El Hierro][3]
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Canary Islands: the trade winds bend sabina trees in El Hierro
![Canary Islands: Frontera from San Andres in El Hierro][4]
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Canary Islands: Frontera from San Andres in El Hierro
![Canary Islands: Roque de Bonanza in El Hierro][5]
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Canary Islands: Roque de Bonanza in El Hierro
![Canary Islands: Frontera in El Hierro][6]
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Canary Islands: Frontera in El Hierro
4:33PM GMT 26 Jan 2010
Tenerife, Gran Canaria, Lanzarote, La Palma, Fuerteventura. Even La Gomera.
But El Hierro? It's a sad fact that most people have never even heard of the
smallest and least populated island in the Canaries archipelago.
But even in comparison to the very best in this hotspot of spectacular
panoramas - from the summit of Mount Teide on Tenerife to the Taburiente
crater on La Palma - El Hierro has some of the most memorable landscapes of
them all.
Hardly surprising, perhaps, that the great Canarian architect Cesar Manrique,
a man who knew a thing or two about views, decided to build another of his
extraordinary creations here.
Indeed, the Mirador de la Peña, with its roof garden, restaurant and lookout
within, is - justifiably - the most famous view on the island, looking out
over the plains of El Golfo, inspiring the spirit to soar and the legs to
explore further.
Just a stone's throw away, the route of one of the island's best walks, the
Camino de Jinama, wends its way down the mountainside.
## Related Articles
* [Canary Islands: sun, sea and truly stunning skylines][7]
26 Jan 2010
* [Tenerife: an elegant land erupting with nature and history][8]
26 Jan 2010
* [El Hierro: stunning views, rare lizards and big green ideas][9]
26 Jan 2010
* [Gran Canaria: an exotic blend of ancient and modern][10]
28 Jan 2010
* [Fuerteventura: a little reserve amid all the action][11]
28 Jan 2010
* [Lanzarote: a blast from the past illuminates the present][12]
28 Jan 2010
* [La Gomera: a small corner of whistles and love][13]
26 Jan 2010
* [La Palma: sitting pretty in starlight][14]
26 Jan 2010
The landslide that created this epic view is thought to have shifted more than
70 cubic miles of earth and to have produced a tsunami 1,000ft high - which
reached the coast of what is now America. In a matter of minutes, mountains
6,500ft high had been reduced to their present day height of 2,300ft. The
result is a natural masterpiece that seems appropriately majestic for this
final outpost of Europe; Columbus's last view of the Old World and
civilisation's last signature before the beckoning unknown beyond.
El Hierro, which was once designated the world's Prime Meridian by ancient map
makers, is also peppered with some of the natural world's most unique
offerings. These include ancient Canary palms, dragon trees and the centuries-
old Phoenician juniper trees of El Sabinar in the west, gnarled and bent
double by direct exposure to the ferocious winds that hurtle in off the
Atlantic.
The island also has the largest variety of reptiles in the Canary Islands,
including tree frogs, geckos and skinks. The most famous is the critically
endangered giant lizard which was thought to be extinct until 1975 when an
amateur German scientist found a tiny population living on remote cliffs. A
small population of the lizards - which can grow up to two feet in length - is
now being bred in captivity and can be visited at the recovery and research
centre in Frontera.
Nearby is the Guinea Eco Museum, where visitors can discover how the original
inhabitants of the island, the Bimbaches, used to live in volcanic tubes
called juaclos prior to the arrival of the Spanish. The Garoe tree, worshipped
by the Bimbaches and one of the island's landmarks, is the focus of one of El
Hierro's most enduring legends, in which a native princess betrays its
whereabouts to the invaders after falling in love with a Spanish sailor.
The original tree, which condensed moisture from the trade winds in its
branches, was a valuable water source. It was destroyed by a hurricane in
1610, but a similar tree planted in 1949 has now replaced it.
But perhaps the most remarkable of El Hierro's many qualities is its
commitment to sustainable living. Its tidiness and high level of cultural
preservation strike you from the moment you arrive, but its social policies
also seem refreshingly enlightened. These include paying unemployed
construction workers to maintain the distinctive drystone walls of the
interior field systems and managing sustainable forests for firewood that is
then provided free for all islanders.
But the crowning glory is one of the island's most recent green energy
projects, due to be completed this year. This is an ambitious plan to make El
Hierro the first island in the world to be self-sufficient. The idea is to
store excess energy from a 10mW wind farm by pumping water to a reservoir
higher up the mountain that can then be released back down again to generate
electricity when the wind is no longer blowing. Clever!
**Key facts **
* _Capital:_ Valverde
* _Size:_ 104sq miles
* _Population:_ 10,560 Highest point: Malpaso at 4,925ft
* _Protected nature reserves:_ Seven. The whole island is a Unesco Biosphere
Reserve
* _Website:_ [**www.elhierro.es**][15]
**Island highlights **
_**Camino de Jinama**_
Most walks on El Hierro enjoy** **views of both the mountains and the sea.
Joining the highland villages of the northeast with the lowlands of the Valle
de Golfo, the Camino de Jinama was used for centuries by the goatherds of the
island for their biannual change of pasture land. Passing the famous Mirador
de la Pena, it is a steep climb (either up or down) rewarded by some of the
best views on the island.
_**Mirador de la Peña **_
Another of Cesar Manrique's trademark creations, this restaurant/lookout has
been built into the volcanic mountainside and looks out over the plains of El
Golfo where, some 50,000 years ago, a third of the island collapsed into the
sea after a gigantic earthquake resulting in a tsunami that probably reached
the west coast of what is now America.
_**El Sabinar **_
On the barren west coast of the island, centuries-old juniper trees have been
bent double like enchanted witches by the winds howling in from the Atlantic.
Their contorted shapes form one of the emblematic images of an island that is
a Biosphere Reserve in its entirety.
_**Bimbache Petroglyphs**_
The original inhabitants of El Hierro, the Bimbaches, left behind them
undeciphered signs and symbols carved into the rocks that can still be seen
all over the island. Some of the best can be found at the archaeological site
of El Julan in the south-west of the island.
_**Diving**_
With a coastal shelf that drops off to nearly 330ft very close to shore, El
Hierro has arguably the best diving in the Canary Islands. Volcanic tunnels,
arches, walls, caves and dropoffs make for a spectacular underwater terrain
while, unlike some of the other islands, the marine life is dense with
tropical species.
_**San Borondon **_
Don't be entirely surprised if you never actually get to see the island of San
Borondon, because it's a ghost island off the coast of El Hierro and a
favourite myth of the islanders. Nonetheless, it was believed to exist for
many centuries and sightings are still claimed to this day!
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[1]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01567/CANARY_P22-24_CM_C_1
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[2]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01567/CANARY_P22-24_CM_M_1
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[3]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01567/CANARY_P22-24_CM_T_1
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[7]: /sponsored/travel/spanish_tourist_board/canaryislands/7079816/Canary-
Islands-sun-sea-and-truly-stunning-skylines.html
[8]: /sponsored/travel/spanish_tourist_board/canaryislands/7079200
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Canaria-an-exotic-blend-of-ancient-and-modern.html
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-little-reserve-amid-all-the-action.html
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-blast-from-the-past-illuminates-the-present.html
[13]: /sponsored/travel/spanish_tourist_board/canaryislands/7079510/La-
Gomera-a-small-corner-of-whistles-and-love.html
[14]: /sponsored/travel/spanish_tourist_board/canaryislands/7079397/La-
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