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# La Palma: sitting pretty in starlight
## La Isla Bonita (The Pretty Island) boasts an incredibly varied landscape
including lush rainforests and marvelous rock formations.
![Canary Islands: banana plantations in La Palma][1]
Image 1 of 5
Canary Islands: banana plantations in La Palma
![Canary Islands: La Palma musicians][2]
Image 1 of 5
Canary Islands: La Palma musicians
![Canary Islands: impressive tree roots in La Palma][3]
Image 1 of 5
Canary Islands: impressive tree roots in La Palma
![Canary Islands: Calle Santa Cruz de la La Palma][4]
Image 1 of 5
Canary Islands: Calle Santa Cruz de la La Palma
![Canary Islands: La Palma's varied landscapes include coastal lagoons like
Fuencaliente][5]
Image 1 of 5
Canary Islands: La Palma's varied landscapes include coastal lagoons like
Fuencaliente
4:07PM GMT 26 Jan 2010
Somewhere beyond 30 million years ago, as Europe was busy separating itself
from Africa beneath the ocean, up popped the first signs of the Canaries.
All the islands are volcanic but the ones closer to Africa are much older than
those that lie 'out to sea', such as La Palma.
That's why the landscape of each is so distinctly different. Lanzarote and
Fuerteventura, for example, are ancient and have been shaped by both volcanic
activity and erosion.
La Palma, a mere youngster compared to some of the others at one to two
million years old, has had its share of eruptions - it's been the most active
over the past millennium or so - but nature's softer side has also played its
part in forming La Isla Bonita (The Pretty Island). Where the lava flows
missed, nature in all its green and exuberant glory got a foothold and
miracles started to happen.
Although the southern slopes of this heart-shaped island are moon-like lava
flows, its central volcano is lush and densely forested, with surrounding
cliffs, ridges and rock formations that rival anything in mainland Europe for
sheer drama. The views both north and south from the Mirador de la Cumbrecita
and the walking trails in the adjacent Caldera de Taburiente National Park are
rightly considered among the very best in the archipelago.
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* [Canary Islands: sun, sea and truly stunning skylines][8]
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* [Gran Canaria: an exotic blend of ancient and modern][9]
28 Jan 2010
* [Fuerteventura: a little reserve amid all the action][10]
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* [Lanzarote: a blast from the past illuminates the present][11]
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La Palma's links with the Caribbean have also permeated the culture. In the
centuries after Columbus reached the New World, emigration - particularly to
Cuba - gathered pace. It is a relationship that has continued to the present
day, leaving its mark on everything from cigarmaking to music, the latter
considered to be the most authentic Cuban sound outside of Havana.
Its major festival, the exuberant Los Indianos parade held in the streets of
the capital Santa Cruz every year, celebrates the return of rich emigrants,
with revellers dressed in white carrying cases of fake money and throwing huge
clouds of talcum powder. Eager to discover the roots of these connections to
Cuba, on my recent visit I sought out a tobacco plantation in the hills above
Santa Cruz and met the manager, Antonio Gonzalez. His grandfather emigrated to
Cuba; on the family's return, his father became a tobacco grower and Antonio
continues the tradition.
As I watched the chinchaleros at work - the men who choose the leaves and roll
them into cigars - Antonio told me what makes a cigar from La Palma so
special: 'A really good cigar is like a conversation. It shouldn't simply
shout or whisper, but have a mix of different notes. Many smokers believe our
cigars are better even than Cohibas from Cuba.' Praise, indeed. ([**www.
fincatabaqueraelsitio.com**][12]).
Another reason for La Palma's relaxed sense of prosperity and the good life -
and why bananas grow so well here - is the island's steepness and the humidity
this attracts from the north-easterly trade winds. It is the only one of the
islands not to be seriously affected by lack of water, with the laurel forests
of the northeast drawing in six times as much water from ground-level clouds
than from the rain that actually falls out of the sky. The laurel forest of
Los Tilos was the first of the island's World Biosphere Reserves, created in
1983, and is renowned for its flora, fauna and enchanting walking trails.
As a keen amateur astronomer, I was also fascinated to discover the Roque de
los Muchachos observatory, a site picked for its consistently cloudless nights
(90 per cent in summer) on the island's highest mountain ridge. Largely free
from artificial light pollution (a situation protected by law), the quality of
the darkness of La Palma's night skies has inspired the creation of a star-
watching tour company.
**Key facts **
* _Capital:_ Santa Cruz de La Palma
* _Size:_ 440 sq miles
* _Population:_ 85,900
* _Highest point:_ Roque de Los Muchachos at 7,950ft
* _Protected nature reserves:_ 20. The entire island is a Unesco World
Biosphere Reserve
* _Website:_ [**www.lapalmaturismo.com**][13]** **
**Island Highlights **
_**Red de Sentedros hiking network**_
The island's 620-mile spider's web of footpaths has been fully signposted by
the European Ramblers Associations. There are two GR (long-distance)
footpaths, 20 PR (one-day) routes, and numerous SL (local) paths shorter than
six miles. Don't miss the epic Ruta de los Volcanes, a tough six-hour walk
along an active volcanic ridge ending at the coast at Faro de Fuencaliente.
_**Caldera de Taburiente**_
A National Park since 1954, the central part of the caldera - the Barranco de
las Angustias - is a five-mile horseshoe with some of the most stunning
scenery on the island, including deep ravines, waterfalls, rock carvings and
archaeological sites left behind by the Benahoaritas, the original inhabitants
of the island.
_**Mirador de la Cumbrecita**_
The view from the southern ridge of the Taburiente crater is one of the most
recognised views in Spain. This vantage point, overlooking both the Cumbre
Nueva (New Ridge) to the south and the Taburiente crater to the north,
includes such an incredible variety of forest and rock and cliff formations
that it has to be counted as one of the world's great views.
_**Observatorio Del Roque de Los Muchachos**_
La Palma has some of the clearest skies in the northern hemisphere with strict
laws to protect it against light pollution (that also extend to the adjacent
shore of northern Tenerife). One of the telescopes at the observatory, the
10-metre Great Canarian Telescope, is the world's largest single-aperture
optical telescope. The site can be visited every day between 8am and 7pm, but
the observatory itself is only open on two days in July and August.
_**Las Hilanderas silk makers**_
Silk has been produced and woven on the island since shortly after the arrival
of the Spanish. Founded in 2002, this working museum in the town of El Paso -
the brainchild of Bertila Perez Gonzalez, who single-handedly kept the craft
alive - demonstrates every stage of silk production from the silk worm cocoons
themselves to the finished product.
_**Music**_
La Palma has a unique connection with the Caribbean due to emigration that
stretches back centuries. When islanders returned, they brought a great deal
of Cuban culture with them, including music. Orillas del Son are a band that
specialises in Cuban music and a Caribbean style.
[**www.orillasdelson.com**][14]** **
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[1]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01567/CANARY_P16-18_CM_B_1
567635c.jpg
[2]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01567/CANARY_P16-18_CM_I_1
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[3]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01567/CANARY_P16-18_CM_R_1
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[4]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01567/CANARY_P16-18_STB__1
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[5]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01567/CANARY_P16-18_STB__1
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[6]: /sponsored/travel/spanish_tourist_board/canaryislands/7079510/La-
Gomera-a-small-corner-of-whistles-and-love.html
[7]: /sponsored/travel/spanish_tourist_board/canaryislands/7079564/El-
Hierro-stunning-views-rare-lizards-and-big-green-ideas.html
[8]: /sponsored/travel/spanish_tourist_board/canaryislands/7079816/Canary-
Islands-sun-sea-and-truly-stunning-skylines.html
[9]: /sponsored/travel/spanish_tourist_board/canaryislands/7080193/Gran-
Canaria-an-exotic-blend-of-ancient-and-modern.html
[10]:
/sponsored/travel/spanish_tourist_board/canaryislands/7091725/Fuerteventura-a
-little-reserve-amid-all-the-action.html
[11]:
/sponsored/travel/spanish_tourist_board/canaryislands/7091935/Lanzarote-a
-blast-from-the-past-illuminates-the-present.html
[12]: http://www. fincatabaqueraelsitio.com
[13]: http://www.lapalmaturismo.com
[14]: http://www.orillasdelson.com
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