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# The stunning Picos de Europa in Northern Spain via Santander with Brittany
Ferries
## Between the two main pilgrims' routes in Northern Spain lies a dramatic
area of outstanding beauty - the Picos de Europa. Penny Cole reports.
Penny Cole 1:29PM BST 09 Jul 2010
Deep gorges cutting through mountains, secret villages in high alpine valleys,
serene lakes, bubbling rivers and historic market towns await those who take
the loop around the Picos de Europa, surely one of the great drives of Europe.
![The market town of Potes with the Picos de Europa in the background][1]
The market town of Potes with the Picos de Europa in the background
This national park rears skywards just behind the coast to the west of
Santander and is easily reached from the city.
It is possible to undertake the full route in a long day, but that would be
without some outstanding diversions and too little time to simply stop and
wonder. Take three or four days, leaving room for a couple of nights on the
stupendous coast, plus a stay in Santander, for a wonderful week's touring.
The Picos de Europa is not vast but it does justify the word spectacular; more
so than much of the Alps, in my opinion.
Out of Santander, head for Panes and you're at the start of this magical tour
in about an hour. Suddenly the road south disappears into the Desfiladero de
la Hermida, a narrow, twisting slot through rock walls with jagged tops,
following the Deva river which cut this ravine over the millennia.
## Related Articles
* [The Picos de Europa][2]
09 Jul 2010
* [Spain's north coast][3]
09 Jul 2010
A first side excursion comes at the hamlet of Hermida and leads up into the
Picos to the tiny villages of Bejes and Quintana, lonely places that share the
silent landscape with a few cows and goats.
Back in the gorge, the road opens into the sunny Liebana valley and, passing
an excellent new visitor centre, reaches Potes, one of the "gateway" towns
around the national park which have accommodation bookable through Brittany
Ferries. Here, there are charming cafes and restaurants set above the river.
Most travellers head down the side valley that eats deep into the Picos to
Fuente De, where a cable car glides up one of the most impressive sheer rock
walls you'll ever see. The vista from the top is everything you'd imagine, but
do try to go for a hike, either into the stark high ground or down through a
breathtaking upper valley.
You need to return to Potes to take the quiet road around the southern part of
the park. It winds up past untouched forested valleys to the Puerto de San
Glorio pass, where from above 5,000ft there are stupendous views south-east
across strange, cloud-skirted peaks or, from a side road, back down into the
Liebana valley.
Soon drivers can take a turn-off to Posada de Valdeon. Hemmed in by formidable
mountains, it's a cute place with more cows than people in the streets. From
here it's a short drive up to the south end of the Cares gorge through which a
path clings to the mighty walls. It's an astonishing walk, high above the
river.
The scenery is superb all the way out of Valdeon on the way to Oseja de
Sajambre and the beginning of another drive through a deep ravine. The
Desfiladero de los Beyos mirrors that of Hermida on the other side of the
park, with the bonus of a large waterfall.
Cangas de Onis, the next stop, is another friendly market town, boasting an
ancient footbridge over the Sella river, a historic parador, cider bars and
some good restaurants.
Heading east from here, there's a must-take diversion up to Covadonga, an
important cultural village and religious sanctuary where, in the eighth
century, Christians won a significant battle against the Moors. Admire the
imposing basilica on a ridge and the shrine of the Holy Cave.
Confident motorists (you'll need to take the shuttle bus in summer) can head
up the spindly lane to a pair of lakes, Enol and Ercina, set in aweinspiring
mountain scenery, a divine place for a walk.
Back downhill, the loop road follows a magnificent valley to Arenas de
Cabrales, a good place for lunch or to stay overnight (and to try the local
blue cheese). A route south leads to the north entrance to the Cares gorge at
Poncebos and another opportunity to take a hike through this bewitching
natural wonder.
A recommended alternative is to jump on the funicular that bores more than a
mile through the mountain to emerge into an alpine wonderland, a hidden valley
that is home to the bucolic stone village of Bulnes. You can wander to the
upper part and wonder how people lived here before the transport system was
built just 10 years ago; until then, the only access was via a precipitous
path.
From Poncebos, the little road winds through to the old Picos villages of
Sotres and Tresviso, which again are on excellent walking routes.
Retracing the route, it's a short run back to Panes and Santander, where
you'll ponder on a memorable short tour -- and go in search of another camera
memory card to replace the one you've just stuffed full.
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Telegraph
## [Brittany Ferries to Santander][9]
* ### [Sponsored »][10]
* ### [Travel »][11]
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* ![Brittany Ferries and Santander][12]
[VIDEOS: PILGRIMS' ROUTE »][13]
### [Travelling in class to Santander][14]
[![Brittany Ferries to Santander introduction video: Derek Bishton's
Camino][15] ][14]
Derek Bishton heads to Santander with Brittany Ferries as he returns to
Northern Spain to take another Camino to Santiago de Compostela.
### [Retracing the Camino: day one][16]
### [Retracing the Camino: day two][17]
### [Retracing the Camino: day three][18]
[Derek Bishton's Blog »][19]
### [Blog: Santiago or Bust][19]
[![Derek Bishton's blog: Santiago or Bust][20]][19]
Read Derek Bishton's blog as he takes his Camino across Northern Europe to
Santiago de Compostela.
[Picture gallery »][21]
### [Derek Bishton's Camino][22]
[![View of Burgos, including Cathedral, Northern Spain][23]][22]
Great photographs from Santander to Santiago de Compostella in Spain.
[Picture Galleries »][24]
### [The Picos de Europa][2]
[![Potes][25]][2]
Beautiful mountains, countryside and historic cities.
### [Spain's north coast][3]
[![Frejulfe Beach, Asturias][26]][3]
Magical coastlines, culture, and delicious seafood.
[Picos and further afield »][27]
### [Stunning Picos][28]
[![The market town of Potes with the Picos de Europa in the background][29]
][28]
Between the two main pilgrims' routes in Northern Spain lies a dramatic area
of outstanding beauty.
### [Eastern promises][30]
[![Aragon, Spain][31] ][30]
A leisurely drive from Santander are the delights of Aragon, Navarra and even
France.
[1]:
http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01676/BF_picos_1676133f.jpg
[2]: /sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-santander/7875099/Northern-
Spain-picture-gallery-The-Picos-de-Europa.html
[3]: /sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-santander/7873218/Spains-north-
coast-the-Northern-Pilgrims-Route.html
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%0A%0Ahttp://www.telegraph.co.uk/sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-
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[9]: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-
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[11]: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sponsored/travel/
[12]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01676/sponsor_brittany_16
76015a.gif
[13]: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-
santander/7881948/Brittany-Ferries-to-Santander-introduction-video-Derek-
Bishtons-Camino.html
[14]: /sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-santander/7881948/Brittany-
Ferries-to-Santander-introduction-video-Derek-Bishtons-Camino.html
[15]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01676/Derek-Bishton-
Vid1_1676356g.jpg
[16]: /sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-santander/7882042/Derek-
Bishtons-Camino-Day-one-video.html
[17]: /sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-santander/7882215/Derek-
Bishtons-Camino-Day-two-video.html
[18]: /sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-santander/7882393/Derek-
Bishtons-Camino-Day-three-video.html
[19]: http://my.telegraph.co.uk/bishtonblog/
[20]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01676/Derek-Biston-
Bentl_1676275g.jpg
[21]: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-
santander/7889579/Picture-gallery-Derek-Bishtons-Camino-in-Northern-Spain.html
[22]: /sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-santander/7889579/Picture-
gallery-Derek-Bishtons-Camino-in-Northern-Spain.html
[23]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01678/Burgos-Cathedral-
v_1678782g.jpg
[24]: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-
santander/7875099/The-Picos-de-Europa.html
[25]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01673/NSpain-Teleg-
Picos_1673508e.jpg
[26]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01673/NSpain-Teleg-
Coast_1673005e.jpg
[27]: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-
santander/7881532/The-stunning-Picos-de-Europa-in-Northern-Spain-via-
Santander-with-Brittany-Ferries.html
[28]: /sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-santander/7881532/The-stunning-
Picos-de-Europa-in-Northern-Spain-via-Santander-with-Brittany-Ferries.html
[29]:
http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01676/SceneryPeak_1676387g.jpg
[30]: /sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-santander/7881779/Visit-Aragon-
Navarre-and-France-via-Santander-with-Brittany-Ferries.html
[31]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01678/Spain-
Aragon_1678922g.jpg