397 lines
14 KiB
Plaintext
Executable File
397 lines
14 KiB
Plaintext
Executable File
sponsored
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travel
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brittany-ferries-to-santander
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7881506
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# Northern Spain: follow the Camino del Norte
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## Following the Camino del Norte through Cantabria and Asturias is a great
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excuse for a superb holiday by the seaside.
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![Very old master: cave paintings at Altamira, close to the coast][1]
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Image 1 of 3
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Very old master: cave paintings at Altamira, close to the coast
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![The coastline is studded with small coves and sweeping beaches][2]
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Image 1 of 3
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The coastline is studded with small coves and sweeping beaches
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![The pretty village of Cudillero][3]
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Image 1 of 3
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The pretty village of Cudillero
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1:17PM BST 09 Jul 2010
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What a magnificent journey awaited pilgrims who chose the second great route
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across Northern Spain. Such is the intensity of exquisite distractions along
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the Camino del Norte that it's surprising how many made it all the way. Which
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is why I'm suggesting that, unless you are devout in spirit, you don't even
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try.
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The full route runs along the coast from Irun on the French border to Galicia
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before it turns inland, but what I am about to propose would make a wonderful
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week's touring out of Santander.
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My route starts in Castro- Urdiales in Cantabria and ends either in Gijon,
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Asturias or, if you have time, in Ribadeo, Galicia.
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By motorway, that's about 230 miles. I could drive that in a few hours, I hear
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you say. But you won't want to. Because every few miles, there will be an old
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stone village, a fantastic beach, a beautiful headland, a seaside town with
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noble architecture, a forested river valley, plus startling mountain views.
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Dotted all along the way are friendly hotels - including paradores - that are
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bookable through Brittany Ferries.
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Santander cries out for a night's stay at the beginning or end of the tour,
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but for now we'll leave the ferry and whizz down the A8 to Castro-Urdiales, an
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hour away.
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This is a fine starting point; part seaside resort, part old town dominated by
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the giant Santa Maria church and the castle-cumlighthouse next door. Much of
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the church dates from the 13th century and beneath are narrow lanes fronted by
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medieval buildings. There's time for a swim off the golden beach before
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dinner.
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Now the adventure starts when you set off on the old coast road back towards
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Santander. Whether you're a "beach person" or not, a visit to some of Northern
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Spain's sands is a no-brainer, as many of those between here and Ribadeo are
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wildly beautiful, backed by cliffs or green slopes, with blue waves fizzing
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gently on soft grains.
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As a taster, admire the bay at Oriñon before nosing north to the bay at
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Sonabia. Hemmed in by headlands, it's so gorgeous you may want to forget the
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rest of the tour (don't please) and if it's midweek, it may well be empty.
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**BIRDS AND BAYS **
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Laredo, the next main stop, has a very different feel. The huge sweep of Salve
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beach is backed by one of Northern Spain's main seaside resorts and although
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you may not find a kiss-me-quick hat in the promenade shops, there's just
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about every other tourist facility, including lessons in surfing or
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windsurfing.
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Taking the road round the great natural bay leads to Santoña opposite Laredo,
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though on the way you may want to take a diversion to spot water birds at the
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mouth of the Ason river, an important ecological reserve.
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Santoña is a pretty fishing village with requisite bobbing boats and the aroma
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of the anchovies and tuna for which it is famous wafting from quayside
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restaurants. Right behind the village is Cantabria's best-known headland,
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Mount Buciero, a huge green dome around which is a wonderful path that leads
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past several small forts and swoops over clifftops.
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On the other side of Santander, it's a short hop to Santillana del Mar, one of
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this route's highlights. It's a living, open-air museum, with houses from the
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14th to 17th centuries lining cobbled streets, grand squares, palaces, a
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notable ancient church and some enticing shops. At night, it's wonderfully
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atmospheric and well worth a stay.
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Close by is another unmissable, the Altamira caves, where some of the world's
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best-preserved cave art was discovered, with images of bison and boar painted
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an incredible 14,000 years ago. The caves are closed to all but scientists now
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to protect the pigments but there's a marvellous reproduction next door.
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Soon we arrive in Comillas, where a traditional seafront and small port
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conceal some architectural treasures. The ornate, neogothic Sobrellano Palace
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is a visual treat, as is the Gaudi-designed El Capricho with its Mudejar-
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inspired tower.
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Switching from culture to nature, the Oyambre area consists of a nature
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reserve and huge white beaches either side of the headland. Join in the
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surfing or find a stretch of sand to yourself.
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As you turn towards the town of San Vicente de la Barquera, the serrated line
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of the Picos de Europa will be visible over to the left. With the crests often
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topped with snow, this is a metaphoric icing on the cake for this coastal
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journey, as the mountains loom large for the next few days.
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They form an eye-catching background to what is a highly attractive town,
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which is evident as you drive across the 28-arched, 16th-century Maza bridge.
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Boats sit silently in the estuary and above a tributary, an old church and a
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castle perch on a ridge.
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**SUPERB SANDS **
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More architectural splendour presents itself at Llanes, across into Asturias.
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Wander among the castle tower, the ancient wall and the 12th-century basilica
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and you'll see what I mean about the fascinating jumble of nature, culture and
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beach that exists all along the coast. If you need a legstretcher, try part of
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the clifftop walk back towards Pendueles, where if the tide is in there are a
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few spectacular blowholes.
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West of Llanes are more exquisite beaches and bays, some only reachable by
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foot. Several have rockpools for critter-hunting, most have soft, golden sand,
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and it's not unusual to find horse riders in the surf.
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Ribadesella, split by the river Sella, is the finishing point for a famous
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canoe race from deep inland each August and is a likeable town even without
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the proximity of the Tito Bustolli caves, which boast stalagtites as well as
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rock paintings.
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Make your next coast stop Lastres, built steeply up from the side of a bay,
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from the top of which are vistas over the town and sea. On the sands opposite
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are flat rocks dented by the 150 millionyear-old feet of dinosaurs.
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Passing several lonely headlands and the picturesque estuary at Villaviciosa,
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there's another shift in contrast in the form of Gijon, Asturias' largest city
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and a major port. Excellent beaches are split by a handsome marina and a small
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promontory, Cimadevilla, on which the old town sits, along with a sea-facing
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park. There's a real buzz about Gijon and of a weekend you'll find multi-
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generation families ambling along the promenade, stopping for a coffee in one
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of the squares and, later, filling the seafood eateries beside the marina.
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Time may insist you jump on the motorway back to Santander, just a couple of
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hours away, but otherwise I urge you to continue.
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Don't let the industrial outskirts of nearby Aviles put you off a visit to the
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city centre, which is replete with Romanesque, baroque and gothic
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architecture, balconied town houses, lovely squares, palaces and churches.
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It's well worth a few hours.
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La Arena, on another estuary, gives access to a string of sweeping beaches,
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popular with kitesurfers and paddling families, with ample space for all.
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A surprise is in store at Cudillero, perhaps the prettiest coastal village in
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Spain. Cute houses tumble vertiginously down the sides of a natural
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amphitheatre, coming to a halt at the little harbour where you can sit outside
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a tavern with a glass of cider and some shellfish.
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Turn off at the small village of Castañeras to find Silencio beach, a stunning
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natural bay in which numerous sea stacks are dashed by the waves.
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**WESTERN WONDERS **
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If you loved Cudillero, you'll also adore Luarces, a steep-sided fishing town
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on a slightly larger scale, which is also good for a spot of shopping.
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One more beach must be mentioned before we get to journey's end; Frejulfe,
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possibly my favourite. From the car park, you can walk through eucalyptus and
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pine trees, across a meadow to an untouched stretch of sand.
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At the next estuary, there's a choice of overnighting in Castropol on the
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Asturias side or Ribadeo opposite in Gacilia.
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I'll indulge you with one more recommendation. Just west of Ribadeo is Playa
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de As Catedrais (Cathedral Beach), where rock arches and deep clefts in the
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cliffs form the architecture on the pristine sands.
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After this remarkable journey, you way well want to turn round and do it all
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again in the opposite direction - I know I did - or continue on to Santiago de
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Compostela. But don't forget that you can always come back. I know I will.
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[X][4] Share & bookmark
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Digg Fark LinkedIn Google Buzz StumbleUpon Y! Buzz
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[What are these?][5]
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* Share: [Share][4] [ ][6] [ ][7]
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[Tweet][8]
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http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-
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santander/7881506/Northern-Spain-follow-the-Camino-del-Norte.html
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Telegraph
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## [Brittany Ferries to Santander][9]
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* ### [Sponsored »][10]
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* ### [Travel »][11]
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[X][4] Share & bookmark
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Delicious Facebook Google Messenger Reddit Twitter
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Digg Fark LinkedIn Google Buzz StumbleUpon Y! Buzz
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[What are these?][5]
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Share:
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* [ ][4]
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* [ ][6]
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* [ ][7]
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* [Tweet][8]
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* ![Brittany Ferries and Santander][12]
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[VIDEOS: PILGRIMS' ROUTE »][13]
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### [Travelling in class to Santander][14]
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[![Brittany Ferries to Santander introduction video: Derek Bishton's
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Camino][15] ][14]
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Derek Bishton heads to Santander with Brittany Ferries as he returns to
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Northern Spain to take another Camino to Santiago de Compostela.
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### [Retracing the Camino: day one][16]
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### [Retracing the Camino: day two][17]
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### [Retracing the Camino: day three][18]
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[Derek Bishton's Blog »][19]
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### [Blog: Santiago or Bust][19]
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[![Derek Bishton's blog: Santiago or Bust][20]][19]
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Read Derek Bishton's blog as he takes his Camino across Northern Europe to
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Santiago de Compostela.
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[Picture gallery »][21]
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### [Derek Bishton's Camino][22]
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[![View of Burgos, including Cathedral, Northern Spain][23]][22]
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Great photographs from Santander to Santiago de Compostella in Spain.
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[Picture Galleries »][24]
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### [The Picos de Europa][25]
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[![Potes][26]][25]
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Beautiful mountains, countryside and historic cities.
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### [Spain's north coast][27]
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[![Frejulfe Beach, Asturias][28]][27]
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Magical coastlines, culture, and delicious seafood.
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[Picos and further afield »][29]
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### [Stunning Picos][30]
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[![The market town of Potes with the Picos de Europa in the background][31]
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][30]
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Between the two main pilgrims' routes in Northern Spain lies a dramatic area
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of outstanding beauty.
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### [Eastern promises][32]
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[![Aragon, Spain][33] ][32]
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A leisurely drive from Santander are the delights of Aragon, Navarra and even
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France.
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[1]:
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http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01676/BF_altamira_1676048c.jpg
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[2]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01676/BF_cove_1676050c.jpg
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[3]:
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http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01676/BF_Potes_1676054c.jpg
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[4]: #
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[5]: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/technology/news/4590190/Share-this-article-
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What-are-these.html
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[6]: mailto:?subject=A Telegraph reader thought you would be interested in
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this article&body=Depending on your email program, you may be able to click on
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the link in the email. Alternatively, you may have to open a web browser, such
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as Firefox or Internet Explorer, and copy the link over into the address bar.
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%0A%0Ahttp://www.telegraph.co.uk/sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-
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santander/7881506/Northern-Spain-follow-the-Camino-del-Norte.html %0A%0AFor
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the best content online, visit www.telegraph.co.uk
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[7]: javascript:print()
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[8]: http://twitter.com/share?via=Telegraph
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[9]: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-
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santander/
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[10]: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sponsored/
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[11]: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sponsored/travel/
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[12]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01676/sponsor_brittany_16
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76015a.gif
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[13]: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-
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santander/7881948/Brittany-Ferries-to-Santander-introduction-video-Derek-
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Bishtons-Camino.html
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[14]: /sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-santander/7881948/Brittany-
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Ferries-to-Santander-introduction-video-Derek-Bishtons-Camino.html
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[15]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01676/Derek-Bishton-
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Vid1_1676356g.jpg
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[16]: /sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-santander/7882042/Derek-
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Bishtons-Camino-Day-one-video.html
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[17]: /sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-santander/7882215/Derek-
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Bishtons-Camino-Day-two-video.html
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[18]: /sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-santander/7882393/Derek-
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Bishtons-Camino-Day-three-video.html
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[19]: http://my.telegraph.co.uk/bishtonblog/
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[20]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01676/Derek-Biston-
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Bentl_1676275g.jpg
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[21]: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-
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santander/7889579/Picture-gallery-Derek-Bishtons-Camino-in-Northern-Spain.html
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[22]: /sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-santander/7889579/Picture-
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gallery-Derek-Bishtons-Camino-in-Northern-Spain.html
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[23]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01678/Burgos-Cathedral-
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v_1678782g.jpg
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[24]: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-
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santander/7875099/The-Picos-de-Europa.html
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[25]: /sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-santander/7875099/Northern-
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Spain-picture-gallery-The-Picos-de-Europa.html
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[26]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01673/NSpain-Teleg-
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Picos_1673508e.jpg
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[27]: /sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-santander/7873218/Spains-north-
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coast-the-Northern-Pilgrims-Route.html
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[28]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01673/NSpain-Teleg-
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Coast_1673005e.jpg
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[29]: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-
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santander/7881532/The-stunning-Picos-de-Europa-in-Northern-Spain-via-
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Santander-with-Brittany-Ferries.html
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[30]: /sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-santander/7881532/The-stunning-
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Picos-de-Europa-in-Northern-Spain-via-Santander-with-Brittany-Ferries.html
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[31]:
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http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01676/SceneryPeak_1676387g.jpg
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[32]: /sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-santander/7881779/Visit-Aragon-
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Navarre-and-France-via-Santander-with-Brittany-Ferries.html
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[33]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01678/Spain-
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Aragon_1678922g.jpg
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