337 lines
11 KiB
Plaintext
Executable File
337 lines
11 KiB
Plaintext
Executable File
sponsored
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travel
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brittany-ferries-to-santander
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7881947
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# Completing the Camino from Len to Santiago in Northern Spain via Santander
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## On the third and final day of his return trip to Northern Spain, Derek
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Bishton takes the Camino from Leon to Santiago.
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![A stained-glass window in Len Cathedral, Northern Spain - via Santander in
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Brittany Ferries][1]
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A stained-glass window in Len Cathedral, Northern Spain Photo: Rick Morris
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Pushinsky
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Derek Bishton 4:29PM BST 09 Jul 2010
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_**Day Three: Leon to Santiago**_
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![Derek Bishton outside the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela, Northern
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Spain - via Santander in Brittany Ferries][2]
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Derek Bishton outside the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela, Northern Spain
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We had originally arranged to film inside Leon Cathedral on day two but our
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meeting with Hilda had scuppered those plans. So my first task was to make
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peace with Maria from the Sociedad Mixta de Turismo, who had arranged
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everything.
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"No problem," she said graciously and agreed to meet us there early in the
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morning of our third day on the road.
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Leon Cathedral is unlike any other because the builders pushed the load-
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bearing capabilities of the gothic style to the limits, creating a large
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number of windows, all of which are filled with the most exquisite stained
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glass. It is the polar opposite of Burgos.
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In place of oppressive, Stygian gloom, Leon Cathedral offers a glorious
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medieval lightshow that changes according to the time of day.
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## Related Articles
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* [Camino part 1: Leaving Pamplona][3]
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09 Jul 2010
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* [Camino part 2: Burgos][4]
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09 Jul 2010
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* [Derek Bishton's Camino][5]
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14 Jul 2010
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Along the north face are depicted characters from the Old Testament, framed by
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intense blue backgrounds. They are walking in the shade, seeking the light. On
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the south side, the movement of the sun illuminates images of the apostles,
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martyrs and saints, symbolising those who are already living in the light, in
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a state of grace.
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**Awe inspiring**
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Finally, in the evening, as the sun sets, there is an explosion of light
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through the west window, transfiguring the Virgin Mary and her attendant
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angels.
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It is one of those rare moments where the vision of the artist both satisfied
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and exceeded the ideological preoccupationsof the patron, creating something
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magical. In all there are 737 windows; nearly 21,000 sq ft of stained glass.
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It was a miracle of luminosity when built and requires a major, ongoing
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restoration project to preserve it.
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Maria took us via a scaffold staircase tucked into a hidden courtyard to a
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viewing platform high above the entrance and we gazed down on the nave towards
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the three magnificent west windows like awestruck eagles.
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But we had to move on - quickly. There were still more than 180 miles to
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Santiago and we had one more stop to make, at the Cruz de Ferro, high in the
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Montes de Leon.
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I wanted to visit the iron cross because it's where pilgrims over the
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centuries have enacted one of the Camino's odder rituals by placing a stone
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brought from their homeland at its foot. Of course, the mound is now a near
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mountain, almost 50ft high at its summit.
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I thought it would make a nice shot for the film and brought a stone from
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London. When I examined it more carefully, I realised it might well have come
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from an earlier trip to Spain.
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Oh well, these days pilgrims leave all kinds of mementos, apart from stones.
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The huge pole that holds the cross aloft is decorated with photos, ribbons,
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teddy bears and little hand-scrawled notes.
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There is a vuvuzela perched near the top, a reminder that in another world - a
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long way from this one - there is something called the World Cup taking place,
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about which we have almost forgotten.
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When we have finished filming, Andy quietly removed the bead necklace he wore
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and pinned it to the pole. That evening, he admitted that the moment when he
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thought of the close friend who had recently died from brain cancer - and to
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whom he dedicated his offering at the Cruz de Ferro - had affected him deeply.
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"I was choked, to be honest. I was surprised at the effect the place had on
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me," he confided. I know what he meant: standing on top of centuries of
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memories left by countless millions of pilgrims is quite an emotional place to
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be.
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And then we were off, racing towards Santiago to recreate my most treasured
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memory; that of walking into the square in front of the magnificent cathedral,
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31 days of Camino behind me, a stupid grin on my face and my compostela - my
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passport out of purgatory - in my hand.
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That day the sun had been slanting across the face of the cathedral, bathing
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it in an ethereal golden glow. I desperately wanted the weather, which had
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been so good, to hold for this final, clinching shot. It did, and as the crowds
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poured down the steps after evening mass I mingled with them, savouring the
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very special atmosphere of this most extraordinary city.
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Above us, high up in the bell tower, the guiding presence of St James looked
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down, now happily shorn of his war-like attributes and represented in a
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triumvirate of statues as a humble pilgrim. Just like you or me, whether we
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travel by Bentley or just a pair of scuffed boots.
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[X][6] Share & bookmark
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Delicious Facebook Google Messenger Reddit Twitter
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Digg Fark LinkedIn Google Buzz StumbleUpon Y! Buzz
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[What are these?][7]
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* Share: [Share][6] [ ][8] [ ][9]
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[Tweet][10]
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http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-
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santander/7881947/Completing-the-Camino-from-Leon-to-Santiago-in-Northern-
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Spain-via-Santander.html
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Telegraph
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## [Brittany Ferries to Santander][11]
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* ### [Sponsored »][12]
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* ### [Travel »][13]
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[X][6] Share & bookmark
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Delicious Facebook Google Messenger Reddit Twitter
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Digg Fark LinkedIn Google Buzz StumbleUpon Y! Buzz
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[What are these?][7]
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Share:
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* [ ][6]
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* [ ][8]
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* [ ][9]
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* [Tweet][10]
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* ![Brittany Ferries and Santander][14]
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[VIDEOS: PILGRIMS' ROUTE »][15]
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### [Travelling in class to Santander][16]
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[![Brittany Ferries to Santander introduction video: Derek Bishton's
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Camino][17] ][16]
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Derek Bishton heads to Santander with Brittany Ferries as he returns to
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Northern Spain to take another Camino to Santiago de Compostela.
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### [Retracing the Camino: day one][18]
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### [Retracing the Camino: day two][19]
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### [Retracing the Camino: day three][20]
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[Derek Bishton's Blog »][21]
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### [Blog: Santiago or Bust][21]
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[![Derek Bishton's blog: Santiago or Bust][22]][21]
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Read Derek Bishton's blog as he takes his Camino across Northern Europe to
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Santiago de Compostela.
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[Picture gallery »][23]
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### [Derek Bishton's Camino][5]
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[![View of Burgos, including Cathedral, Northern Spain][24]][5]
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Great photographs from Santander to Santiago de Compostella in Spain.
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[Picture Galleries »][25]
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### [The Picos de Europa][26]
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[![Potes][27]][26]
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Beautiful mountains, countryside and historic cities.
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### [Spain's north coast][28]
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[![Frejulfe Beach, Asturias][29]][28]
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Magical coastlines, culture, and delicious seafood.
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[Picos and further afield »][30]
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### [Stunning Picos][31]
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[![The market town of Potes with the Picos de Europa in the background][32]
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][31]
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Between the two main pilgrims' routes in Northern Spain lies a dramatic area
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of outstanding beauty.
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### [Eastern promises][33]
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[![Aragon, Spain][34] ][33]
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A leisurely drive from Santander are the delights of Aragon, Navarra and even
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France.
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[1]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01676/Leon-Cathedral-
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win_1676258c.jpg
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[2]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01676/Santiago-Derek-
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Bis_1676248f.jpg
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[3]: /sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-santander/7881343/Travelling-
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the-Camino-the-pilgrims-route-in-Northern-Spain-via-Santander.html
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[4]: /sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-santander/7881839/The-Camino-
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from-Burgos-to-Leon-in-Northern-Spain-via-Santander.html
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[5]: /sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-santander/7889579/Picture-
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gallery-Derek-Bishtons-Camino-in-Northern-Spain.html
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[6]: #
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[7]: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/technology/news/4590190/Share-this-article-
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What-are-these.html
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[8]: mailto:?subject=A Telegraph reader thought you would be interested in
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this article&body=Depending on your email program, you may be able to click on
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the link in the email. Alternatively, you may have to open a web browser, such
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as Firefox or Internet Explorer, and copy the link over into the address bar.
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%0A%0Ahttp://www.telegraph.co.uk/sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-
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santander/7881947/Completing-the-Camino-from-Leon-to-Santiago-in-Northern-
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Spain-via-Santander.html %0A%0AFor the best content online, visit
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www.telegraph.co.uk
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[9]: javascript:print()
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[10]: http://twitter.com/share?via=Telegraph
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[11]: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-
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santander/
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[12]: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sponsored/
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[13]: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sponsored/travel/
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[14]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01676/sponsor_brittany_16
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76015a.gif
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[15]: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-
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santander/7881948/Brittany-Ferries-to-Santander-introduction-video-Derek-
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Bishtons-Camino.html
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[16]: /sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-santander/7881948/Brittany-
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Ferries-to-Santander-introduction-video-Derek-Bishtons-Camino.html
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[17]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01676/Derek-Bishton-
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Vid1_1676356g.jpg
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[18]: /sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-santander/7882042/Derek-
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Bishtons-Camino-Day-one-video.html
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[19]: /sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-santander/7882215/Derek-
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Bishtons-Camino-Day-two-video.html
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[20]: /sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-santander/7882393/Derek-
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Bishtons-Camino-Day-three-video.html
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[21]: http://my.telegraph.co.uk/bishtonblog/
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[22]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01676/Derek-Biston-
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Bentl_1676275g.jpg
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[23]: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-
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santander/7889579/Picture-gallery-Derek-Bishtons-Camino-in-Northern-Spain.html
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[24]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01678/Burgos-Cathedral-
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v_1678782g.jpg
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[25]: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-
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santander/7875099/The-Picos-de-Europa.html
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[26]: /sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-santander/7875099/Northern-
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Spain-picture-gallery-The-Picos-de-Europa.html
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[27]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01673/NSpain-Teleg-
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Picos_1673508e.jpg
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[28]: /sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-santander/7873218/Spains-north-
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coast-the-Northern-Pilgrims-Route.html
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[29]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01673/NSpain-Teleg-
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Coast_1673005e.jpg
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[30]: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-
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santander/7881532/The-stunning-Picos-de-Europa-in-Northern-Spain-via-
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Santander-with-Brittany-Ferries.html
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[31]: /sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-santander/7881532/The-stunning-
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Picos-de-Europa-in-Northern-Spain-via-Santander-with-Brittany-Ferries.html
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[32]:
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http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01676/SceneryPeak_1676387g.jpg
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[33]: /sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-santander/7881779/Visit-Aragon-
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Navarre-and-France-via-Santander-with-Brittany-Ferries.html
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[34]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01678/Spain-
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Aragon_1678922g.jpg
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