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# Travelling the Camino, the pilgrim's route in Northern Spain via Santander
## On the first day of his return trip to Northern Spain, Derek Bishton takes
the Camino from Pamplona to San Juande Ortega.
![Derek Bishton in Olite, Santander (Northern Spain)][1]
Derek Bishton in Olite, Santander (Northern Spain) Photo: Rick Morris
Pushinsky
Derek Bishton 1:40PM BST 09 Jul 2010
**_Pilgrims have been walking the route across Northern Spain to Santiago de
Compostela for more than a thousand years. No other journey in Europe has
caught the imagination of so many millions over such a long period. The story
of how this former Roman burial ground provided the heartbeat for a major
artery spreading high medieval Christian culture, architecture and art across
Europe is a fascinating one. It so intrigued the Telegraph's Derek Bishton
that he decided to walk the Camino in 1999. It took him 31 days and he stayed
mostly in pilgrim hostels, with his world packed into a rucksack. It was, he
says, a life-enhancing experience._**
![Inside the church in San Juan de Ortega, Northern Spain (Santander)][2]
The church in San Juan de Ortega, Northern Spain
**_We asked him to return with a film crew to try to capture some of the most
memorable locations and the feelings they evoked. His brief was to cover the
500-mile route in three days. Bentley provided him with one of the fastest
production cars -- the mighty Continental Supersports. Brittany Ferries sailed
him and his crew to Santander. Paradores Spain gave him five-star
accommodation.We asked him if it's possible to combine the best of both old
and new worlds. Here is his report. . ._**
_**Day One: Pamplona to San Juande Ortega**_
There is, as many of us know, something about walking that is good for the
soul. It frees you from the everyday routines of your life - especially when
you've no definite notion of where you're going to lay your head on any
particular night. You're effectively homeless and you begin to experience the
world differently. New spaces open up in your mind.There were moments on my
Camino when I felt, almost viscerally, that I had gone seven or eight hundred
years back in time.
## Related Articles
* [Camino part 2: Burgos][3]
09 Jul 2010
* [Camino part 3: Len to Santiago][4]
09 Jul 2010
* [Derek Bishton's Camino][5]
14 Jul 2010
Every day there was at least one astonishing piece of medieval architecture -
a church, a bridge or detail on a monument - to admire, explore, photograph
and absorb. Some days I walked past so many that my head began to swim. By the
end, I had completely revised my understanding of how religion had shaped
European identity and culture in the medieval period.
There were other times, such as when the path led off to the high plains
between Burgos and Leon, where, far from even the quietest country roads, I
entered an almost transcendental state. I can vividly recall one day when I
walked for miles with butterflies dancing right in front of my outstretched
arms. It was if they were leading me along and the tranquillity was only
pierced by the calls of birds and crickets and the sound of my own breathing.
**Aesthetic power**
Then there were the moments of pure, physical pain and endurance. About 15
days in, I developed tendonitis in my shin. It bothered me for the rest of my
walk, but a combination of anti-inflammatory cream donated by fellow pilgrims
and the adrenalin generated by the approach of Santiago propelled me.
The final day, when I limped into the main square in front of the cathedral,
having covered the best part of 25 miles, was a profoundly spiritual and
emotional moment - even for a long-time agnostic like me.
Education, contemplation and inspiration; how was I going to capture the
essence of my 31-day Camino in a three-day drive from Pamplona to Santiago? On
the face of it, it seemed an impossible, ridiculous task. And yet, as we drew
up at the parador in the tiny walled village of Orlite on our first evening in
Spain, the stunning architectural riches of the region began to exert their
seductive power almost immediately.
From the outside, Orlite is a massive, forbidding fortress of a place, like a
giant sandcastle topped with 15 square towers straight out of the bucket.
First time around, we missed the tiny arched entrance and when we did find it,
the streets seemed impossibly narrow.
Then suddenly we were in the square and the evening sunlight was slanting down
on to the gothic façade of the 15th-century church. This was what I
remembered: the overwhelming aesthetic power of the buildings and the
incredible delicacy and detail of the carvings above the doors. I sat down in
the cloisters to ruminate; the omens were good.
My principal memory from this stretch of the Camino, from Pamplona down
through Logroño and into Rioja territory, was of stunning vistas constantly
opening up among the rolling hills.
Every step seemed to reveal another small village, invariably on a hilltop,
with the church tower in the centre like intricate icing on a giant cake.
Cirauqui, Estella, Los Arcos, Torres del Rio, Viana - this is probably the
most scenic part of the Camino to walk, and every one of these towns and
villages has something jaw-droppingly beautiful to take in. They merit much
longer than we were able to give them on this whistle-stop tour, but the
growing enthusiasm of the film crew as the wow factor started to kick in was
encouraging.
Later, when we looked at some of the clips, the sheer scale and quantity of
the buildings and the sublime craftsmanship became even more apparent. For
anyone wanting an insight into the power and ideological fervour of
Christianity in the Middle Ages, the 60 or so miles from Pamplona to Logroño
is really not to be missed.
**Modernity**
But this part of the Camino is not just about buildings. As you get closer to
Logroño, the capital of the province of Rioja, vineyards became an
increasingly familiar sight on the hillsides. They remind us that the pioneers
of this route not only hauled thousands of tons of stone but also brought wine
growing to the region.
Cistercian monks started planting vines carried from France more than 1,000
years ago in order to provide something to fortify weary pilgrims. How
thoughtful! One of the great delights of my Camino was the nightly bottle of
wine: rustic reds from Navarra, classy reservas from Rioja, I sampled them all
with guilt-free pleasure.
By chance, this time around, we lighted on the small Tandem winery, a few
miles from Estella. The pilgrim path runs directly through the vineyards and
from the terrace of a smart minimalist building, we sampled one of its latest
blends as walkers ambled past in the midday sun below us.
Just as the monks and noblemen of earlier times had attracted the world's
finest craftsmen to build the Camino, now some of the region's wine producers
have brought in great contemporary architects to add to the architectural
heritage.
A few miles outside Logroño, one of the oldest and most prestigious producers,
Marques de Riscal, has a splendid hotel designed by Frank Gehry, whose design
for the Guggenheim in Bilbao is already one of the icons of great 20th-century
architecture. I find this injection of modernity quite refreshing: far from
becoming fossilised, the Camino continues to be a living, breathing entity.
Our final stop before heading off to Burgos for the night was the tiny hamlet
of San Juan de Ortega. This is a remarkable place for several reasons. Most
pleasing is the way the capital on the monastery church was designed so that
on the spring and summer equinox, a single shaft of light illuminates the
figure of Mary.
But the play of light and shade is remarkable at any time of year. You come
across the church and monastery after hours of walking through a dark, spooky
pine forest. Entering the square, there is the mysterious sensation of walking
into the light - both literally and spiritually.
As I was discussing this with the camera crew and photographer, right on cue,
the sun broke through, sending perfect rays of light fanning out from a dark
cloud on the horizon.
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Telegraph
## [Brittany Ferries to Santander][11]
* ### [Sponsored »][12]
* ### [Travel »][13]
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* ![Brittany Ferries and Santander][14]
[VIDEOS: PILGRIMS' ROUTE »][15]
### [Travelling in class to Santander][16]
[![Brittany Ferries to Santander introduction video: Derek Bishton's
Camino][17] ][16]
Derek Bishton heads to Santander with Brittany Ferries as he returns to
Northern Spain to take another Camino to Santiago de Compostela.
### [Retracing the Camino: day one][18]
### [Retracing the Camino: day two][19]
### [Retracing the Camino: day three][20]
[Derek Bishton's Blog »][21]
### [Blog: Santiago or Bust][21]
[![Derek Bishton's blog: Santiago or Bust][22]][21]
Read Derek Bishton's blog as he takes his Camino across Northern Europe to
Santiago de Compostela.
[Picture gallery »][23]
### [Derek Bishton's Camino][5]
[![View of Burgos, including Cathedral, Northern Spain][24]][5]
Great photographs from Santander to Santiago de Compostella in Spain.
[Picture Galleries »][25]
### [The Picos de Europa][26]
[![Potes][27]][26]
Beautiful mountains, countryside and historic cities.
### [Spain's north coast][28]
[![Frejulfe Beach, Asturias][29]][28]
Magical coastlines, culture, and delicious seafood.
[Picos and further afield »][30]
### [Stunning Picos][31]
[![The market town of Potes with the Picos de Europa in the background][32]
][31]
Between the two main pilgrims' routes in Northern Spain lies a dramatic area
of outstanding beauty.
### [Eastern promises][33]
[![Aragon, Spain][34] ][33]
A leisurely drive from Santander are the delights of Aragon, Navarra and even
France.
[1]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01676/Olite-Derek-
Bishto_1676070c.jpg
[2]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01676/San-Juan-de-
Ortega_1676056f.jpg
[3]: /sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-santander/7881839/The-Camino-
from-Burgos-to-Leon-in-Northern-Spain-via-Santander.html
[4]: /sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-santander/7881947/Completing-
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[5]: /sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-santander/7889579/Picture-
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[14]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01676/sponsor_brittany_16
76015a.gif
[15]: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-
santander/7881948/Brittany-Ferries-to-Santander-introduction-video-Derek-
Bishtons-Camino.html
[16]: /sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-santander/7881948/Brittany-
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[17]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01676/Derek-Bishton-
Vid1_1676356g.jpg
[18]: /sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-santander/7882042/Derek-
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[19]: /sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-santander/7882215/Derek-
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[20]: /sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-santander/7882393/Derek-
Bishtons-Camino-Day-three-video.html
[21]: http://my.telegraph.co.uk/bishtonblog/
[22]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01676/Derek-Biston-
Bentl_1676275g.jpg
[23]: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-
santander/7889579/Picture-gallery-Derek-Bishtons-Camino-in-Northern-Spain.html
[24]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01678/Burgos-Cathedral-
v_1678782g.jpg
[25]: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-
santander/7875099/The-Picos-de-Europa.html
[26]: /sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-santander/7875099/Northern-
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[27]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01673/NSpain-Teleg-
Picos_1673508e.jpg
[28]: /sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-santander/7873218/Spains-north-
coast-the-Northern-Pilgrims-Route.html
[29]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01673/NSpain-Teleg-
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[30]: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-
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[33]: /sponsored/travel/brittany-ferries-to-santander/7881779/Visit-Aragon-
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[34]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01678/Spain-
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