2013-04-16 10:05:26 +02:00

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# Cantabria: the great outdoors
## Head inland for scenic splendour and get close to nature, says John
Wilmott.
![The dramatic landscape of the Picos de Europa makes wonderful walking
terrain][1]
The dramatic landscape of the Picos de Europa makes wonderful walking terrain
4:54PM BST 13 Aug 2010
Walking along a track in a high alpine valley, I stopped to listen. All that
could be heard was the curious chatter of unseen birds among the rocks and
grasses. Then they fell eerily silent. Suddenly, directly over my head, flew
what I thought was a light aircraft. It was, in fact, a griffon vulture and I
watched as it glided down the valley on its 8ft wingspan.
This proved to be one of several sightings of these magnificent birds during a
few days in the rural haven of Cantabria, along with alpine choughs, buzzards,
pipits, wagtails and numerous species whose presence was too fleeting to
identify their species. Yet inland Cantabria is not just the domain of sore-
footed hikers and those glued to binoculars; this green and exquisitely
pleasant land offers a rewarding experience for active families or those
exploring by car.
Even a short excursion inland from the alluring coast will reveal lush
meadows, sheer-sided gorges, rushing rivers and the serrated skyline of the
Picos de Europa, the chunk of mountains protected by national park status.
Alongside the pastoral peace is an enticing selection of outdoor pursuits
through which you can healthily interact with this splendid landscape.
The most obvious destination is the Libana Valley, which enjoys a mild
microclimate in which apple and cherry trees thrive, as well as numerous oaks
and beeches. Getting here is an adventure in itself, through the spectacular
Desfiladero de la Hermida, a split in the mountains through which thread a
river and a road.
Most drivers pass straight through the gorge to the market town of Potes, in
which case they miss a couple of delightful side trips. I turned off right up
a spindly lane that leads to several stone hamlets cowering silently beneath
tall rock walls; they are less than a couple of hours from buzzing Santander
yet in another world.
Further down, my guide book indicated a footpath that clambered up the left
side of the gorge and just a short climb gave me a different perspective on
this wild ravine, which was dripping with fresh waterfalls, glistening in the
sun after a brief but fierce shower an hour earlier.
**GATEWAY TO THE PEAKS**
Likeable Potes is something of a one-street town on the Deva river with
several friendly dining and accommodation choices and makes the best base in
the Libana Valley. There are outfitters here who can sort you out a day's
excitement; whitewater rafting, climbing, canyoning and paragliding for the
brave, or horse-riding, canoeing and 4x4 tours for those who prefer their
nerves to be kept intact. The valley is perfect for riding or mountain-biking
along quiet tracks, with enjoyable routes for road cyclists, too.
Just before entering Potes, there's a rather good exhibition centre in a
striking building, where you can learn all about the geology and wildlife of
the valley and the Picos de Europa.
A tributary valley squirrels deep into the mountains to the west and is
another route through which drivers pour non-stop to the cable car at Fuente
D. Again, they're missing several points. One short side-road leads past a
monastery, the Santo Toribio, to an excellent belvedere viewpoint, with Potes
simmering in its natural bowl on one side, the towers of the Picos on the
other.
The villages back along the valley road are the starting points for several
walks, including one along the pretty river.
Fuente D, though, is unmissable. An overwhelmingly huge, sheer rock wall
blocks the valley, an eye-popping contrast to the gentle woods and grazing
meadows below. A little red cable car soars up to the precariously perched
upper station on top of the cliff; the ride is breathtaking if slightly
unnerving for those prone to vertigo.
At the top, it's another different world. The vista back down the valley is
magnificent, especially if wispy clouds are swirling around the formidable
peaks. With a caf and several viewpoints, there's no need to travel far but if
time permits there is an astounding walk back down to the valley.
If you're spending a few days in the area, take the road that leads south and
then west out of Potes towards the neighbouring region of Castilla y Len. The
road swoops and dips along the contours to a couple of marvellous viewpoints,
the first marked by a bronze figure of a chamois with a panorama of strangely
shaped peaks to the south that often poke through low clouds. Slightly further
on, at the 5,300ft San Glorio pass, a skinny road leads to a col with vistas
down into the Libana Valley to the north; it's a fine walk if you have the
time.
**THE LONELY EAST **
Deservedly popular as the Libana and Picos are, it would be a shame to visit
Cantabria and not find its real soul, in the peaks and valleys further east.
Few foreign visitors find their way here, not least because the detours
required around the hulking crags make journeys longer than expected, though
undoubtedly intoxicating. I like the route from La Hermida, the village in the
gorge, across lonely landscapes, but do check your map and plot your own path.
Right across here it's cattle country, especially the prized Tucanda variety,
the bell-adorned beasts frequently seen ambling along the lanes, occasionally
chased by a determined farmer.
If you need to head back now towards Santander, I'd recommend calling in at
the spa town of Puente Viesgo. The powerful river, which at times rages
through a rocky gully, is a major attraction but there are also picturesque
old houses and the opportunity to sample the health-giving waters, especially
at the Gran Hotel Balneario whose "Water Temple" spa is open to non-residents.
This area is also noted for its caves in which some of the most important
examples of prehistoric art have been discovered. Those at Altamira near the
coast are the best known but close to Puente Viesgo is the Cueva del Castillo
which is normally open to the public. Many of the paintings depict animals,
including dogs, horses, bison and even mammoths. For those not touring the
countryside, this area makes a superb short excursion from Santander.
Even closer to the city is the Cabrceno Natural Park which is home to a
plethora of local and exotic wild animals, all in carefully-designed, open
settings formed from an old mine. A first-class attraction for families, here
you can come face to face with tigers, bears, elephants, rhinoceros,
kangaroos, snakes and much more.
**FISH-FULL RIVERS**
Should you have the chance to venture further east, head for Ramales de la
Victoria. The town, on the Asn river, is attractive enough and known for
holding several fiestas each year, but it's just a leap from opportunities to
delve into more caves or fish for trout in the rivers. Indeed, game fish
feature on local menus, along with a speciality cream cheese.
Just south, the Soba area is ideal for walking and cycling with more solitude
than you may find in the Picos; seek out the Nacimiento waterfall, the
impressive source of the Asn river, and keep your eyes open for more large
birds of prey.
Remember, despite its diversity, Cantabria is not a vast region and even if
you are based on the coast, a short foray inland will be well rewarded, with
special moments awaiting those who venture further afield.
That's what is most splendid about Cantabria. The glorious coast and
spectacular hinterland blend seamlessly into a land of endless enchantment.
* To find out more about Cantabria, visit the **[Cantabria Tourism
website][2].**
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