307 lines
11 KiB
Plaintext
Executable File
307 lines
11 KiB
Plaintext
Executable File
sponsored
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travel
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spanish_tourist_board
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7944728
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# Cantabria: the great outdoors
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## Head inland for scenic splendour and get close to nature, says John
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Wilmott.
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![The dramatic landscape of the Picos de Europa makes wonderful walking
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terrain][1]
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The dramatic landscape of the Picos de Europa makes wonderful walking terrain
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4:54PM BST 13 Aug 2010
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Walking along a track in a high alpine valley, I stopped to listen. All that
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could be heard was the curious chatter of unseen birds among the rocks and
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grasses. Then they fell eerily silent. Suddenly, directly over my head, flew
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what I thought was a light aircraft. It was, in fact, a griffon vulture and I
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watched as it glided down the valley on its 8ft wingspan.
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This proved to be one of several sightings of these magnificent birds during a
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few days in the rural haven of Cantabria, along with alpine choughs, buzzards,
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pipits, wagtails and numerous species whose presence was too fleeting to
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identify their species. Yet inland Cantabria is not just the domain of sore-
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footed hikers and those glued to binoculars; this green and exquisitely
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pleasant land offers a rewarding experience for active families or those
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exploring by car.
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Even a short excursion inland from the alluring coast will reveal lush
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meadows, sheer-sided gorges, rushing rivers and the serrated skyline of the
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Picos de Europa, the chunk of mountains protected by national park status.
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Alongside the pastoral peace is an enticing selection of outdoor pursuits
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through which you can healthily interact with this splendid landscape.
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The most obvious destination is the Libana Valley, which enjoys a mild
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microclimate in which apple and cherry trees thrive, as well as numerous oaks
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and beeches. Getting here is an adventure in itself, through the spectacular
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Desfiladero de la Hermida, a split in the mountains through which thread a
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river and a road.
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Most drivers pass straight through the gorge to the market town of Potes, in
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which case they miss a couple of delightful side trips. I turned off right up
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a spindly lane that leads to several stone hamlets cowering silently beneath
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tall rock walls; they are less than a couple of hours from buzzing Santander
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yet in another world.
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Further down, my guide book indicated a footpath that clambered up the left
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side of the gorge and just a short climb gave me a different perspective on
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this wild ravine, which was dripping with fresh waterfalls, glistening in the
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sun after a brief but fierce shower an hour earlier.
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**GATEWAY TO THE PEAKS**
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Likeable Potes is something of a one-street town on the Deva river with
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several friendly dining and accommodation choices and makes the best base in
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the Libana Valley. There are outfitters here who can sort you out a day's
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excitement; whitewater rafting, climbing, canyoning and paragliding for the
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brave, or horse-riding, canoeing and 4x4 tours for those who prefer their
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nerves to be kept intact. The valley is perfect for riding or mountain-biking
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along quiet tracks, with enjoyable routes for road cyclists, too.
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Just before entering Potes, there's a rather good exhibition centre in a
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striking building, where you can learn all about the geology and wildlife of
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the valley and the Picos de Europa.
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A tributary valley squirrels deep into the mountains to the west and is
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another route through which drivers pour non-stop to the cable car at Fuente
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D. Again, they're missing several points. One short side-road leads past a
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monastery, the Santo Toribio, to an excellent belvedere viewpoint, with Potes
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simmering in its natural bowl on one side, the towers of the Picos on the
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other.
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The villages back along the valley road are the starting points for several
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walks, including one along the pretty river.
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Fuente D, though, is unmissable. An overwhelmingly huge, sheer rock wall
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blocks the valley, an eye-popping contrast to the gentle woods and grazing
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meadows below. A little red cable car soars up to the precariously perched
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upper station on top of the cliff; the ride is breathtaking if slightly
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unnerving for those prone to vertigo.
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At the top, it's another different world. The vista back down the valley is
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magnificent, especially if wispy clouds are swirling around the formidable
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peaks. With a caf and several viewpoints, there's no need to travel far but if
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time permits there is an astounding walk back down to the valley.
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If you're spending a few days in the area, take the road that leads south and
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then west out of Potes towards the neighbouring region of Castilla y Len. The
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road swoops and dips along the contours to a couple of marvellous viewpoints,
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the first marked by a bronze figure of a chamois with a panorama of strangely
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shaped peaks to the south that often poke through low clouds. Slightly further
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on, at the 5,300ft San Glorio pass, a skinny road leads to a col with vistas
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down into the Libana Valley to the north; it's a fine walk if you have the
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time.
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**THE LONELY EAST **
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Deservedly popular as the Libana and Picos are, it would be a shame to visit
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Cantabria and not find its real soul, in the peaks and valleys further east.
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Few foreign visitors find their way here, not least because the detours
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required around the hulking crags make journeys longer than expected, though
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undoubtedly intoxicating. I like the route from La Hermida, the village in the
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gorge, across lonely landscapes, but do check your map and plot your own path.
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Right across here it's cattle country, especially the prized Tucanda variety,
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the bell-adorned beasts frequently seen ambling along the lanes, occasionally
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chased by a determined farmer.
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If you need to head back now towards Santander, I'd recommend calling in at
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the spa town of Puente Viesgo. The powerful river, which at times rages
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through a rocky gully, is a major attraction but there are also picturesque
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old houses and the opportunity to sample the health-giving waters, especially
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at the Gran Hotel Balneario whose "Water Temple" spa is open to non-residents.
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This area is also noted for its caves in which some of the most important
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examples of prehistoric art have been discovered. Those at Altamira near the
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coast are the best known but close to Puente Viesgo is the Cueva del Castillo
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which is normally open to the public. Many of the paintings depict animals,
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including dogs, horses, bison and even mammoths. For those not touring the
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countryside, this area makes a superb short excursion from Santander.
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Even closer to the city is the Cabrceno Natural Park which is home to a
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plethora of local and exotic wild animals, all in carefully-designed, open
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settings formed from an old mine. A first-class attraction for families, here
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you can come face to face with tigers, bears, elephants, rhinoceros,
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kangaroos, snakes and much more.
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**FISH-FULL RIVERS**
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Should you have the chance to venture further east, head for Ramales de la
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Victoria. The town, on the Asn river, is attractive enough and known for
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holding several fiestas each year, but it's just a leap from opportunities to
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delve into more caves or fish for trout in the rivers. Indeed, game fish
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feature on local menus, along with a speciality cream cheese.
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Just south, the Soba area is ideal for walking and cycling with more solitude
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than you may find in the Picos; seek out the Nacimiento waterfall, the
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impressive source of the Asn river, and keep your eyes open for more large
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birds of prey.
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Remember, despite its diversity, Cantabria is not a vast region and even if
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you are based on the coast, a short foray inland will be well rewarded, with
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special moments awaiting those who venture further afield.
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That's what is most splendid about Cantabria. The glorious coast and
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spectacular hinterland blend seamlessly into a land of endless enchantment.
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* To find out more about Cantabria, visit the **[Cantabria Tourism
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website][2].**
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[X][3] Share & bookmark
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Digg Fark LinkedIn Google Buzz StumbleUpon Y! Buzz
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[What are these?][4]
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* Share: [Share][3] [ ][5] [ ][6]
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[Tweet][7]
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http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sponsored/travel/spanish_tourist_board/7944728
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/Cantabria-the-great-outdoors.html
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Telegraph
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## [Spanish Tourist Board][8]
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* ### [Sponsored »][9]
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* ### [Travel »][10]
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* ### [Cantabria »][11]
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### [Win a holiday in the Basque Country][12]
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[![Win a week's holiday in the picturesque Basque region of Spain. ][13]
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][12]
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### [Basque Country e-book][14]
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[![The Guggenheim Museum, Bilbao. ][15]][14]
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External Links
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* ### [Cantabria Tourism][16]
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[X][3] Share & bookmark
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Delicious Facebook Google Messenger Reddit Twitter
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Digg Fark LinkedIn Google Buzz StumbleUpon Y! Buzz
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[What are these?][4]
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Share:
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* [ ][3]
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* [ ][5]
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* [ ][6]
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* [Tweet][7]
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* [Visiting Spain »][17]
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### [A comprehensive guide to Spain][17]
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[![Map of Spain][18]][17]
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Get a taste for Spain with our comprehensive guides to Spanish culture, food,
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scenery and sport plus use our interactive map to help you plan the perfect
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Spanish holiday.
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## Spanish Islands
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### [Canary Islands][19]
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[![Canary Islands: La Palma's varied landscapes include coastal lagoons like
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Fuencaliente][20]][19]
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The Canary Islands have always been popular with tourists, but there are still
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plenty of hidden gems to discover.
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### [Menorca][21]
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[![Menorca][22]][21]
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We take a look at the unique personality of Menorca, the magical Balearic
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island renowned for its picturesque coves.
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### [Ibiza][23]
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[![Ibiza][24]][23]
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From breathtaking scenery to local arts and crafts, Ibiza has a lot more to
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offer than just sunbathing and clubbing, use our guide to get the most out of
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your holiday to Ibiza.
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[1]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01696/cantabria-
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peaks_1696379c.jpg
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[2]: http://www.turismodecantabria.com
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[3]: #
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[4]: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/technology/news/4590190/Share-this-article-
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What-are-these.html
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[5]: mailto:?subject=A Telegraph reader thought you would be interested in
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this article&body=Depending on your email program, you may be able to click on
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the link in the email. Alternatively, you may have to open a web browser, such
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as Firefox or Internet Explorer, and copy the link over into the address bar.
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%0A%0Ahttp://www.telegraph.co.uk/sponsored/travel/spanish_tourist_board/794472
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8/Cantabria-the-great-outdoors.html %0A%0AFor the best content online, visit
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www.telegraph.co.uk
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[6]: javascript:print()
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[7]: http://twitter.com/share?via=Telegraph
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[8]: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sponsored/travel/spanish_tourist_board/
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[9]: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sponsored/
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[10]: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sponsored/travel/
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[11]: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sponsored/travel/cantabria/
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[12]: /sponsored/travel/spanish_tourist_board/8419546/Win-a-touring-
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holiday-of-the-Basque-Country.html
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[13]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01862/basque_1862028g.jpg
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[14]: http://www.e-brochure.org/SPAIN
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[15]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01862/spider_1862052g.jpg
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[16]: http://english.turismodecantabria.com/
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[17]: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sponsored/travel/spain/
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[18]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01862/map_1862399e.jpg
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[19]: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sponsored/travel/spanish_tourist_board/can
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aryislands/
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[20]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01567/CANARY_P16-18_STB__
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1567626g.jpg
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[21]: http://telegraph.planeteditions.co.uk/menorca/
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[22]:
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http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01693/menorca_1693586g.jpg
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[23]:
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http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sponsored/travel/spanish_tourist_board/ibiza/
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[24]: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01691/IBIZA_-
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_BEACHES__C_1691149g.jpg
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