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# Top 10 inland attractions in Cantabria, Spain
## Green and gorgeous, Cantabria's hinterland is a place for lovers of the
great outdoors. John Wilmott chooses his favourites.
![Cantabria: gentle pastures in the Miera valley][1]
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Cantabria: gentle pastures in the Miera valley
![Cantabria: the Cabrceno nature park has a host of animals][2]
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Cantabria: the Cabrceno nature park has a host of animals
![Cantabria: canoeing][3]
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Cantabria: canoeing is one of many water activities
3:39PM BST 13 May 2011
**1 FUENTE DE, PICOS DE EUROPA**
Let's start with Cantabria's best known inland hero, which is one of the prime
gateways to the Picos de Europa National Park. A sublime branch of the lush
Liebana valley cuts a swathe through impressive mountains to end at an
almighty rock wall.
The setting is marvellous but most visitors take the cable car that ascends as
if to the gods, finally docking at a visitor centre perched right at the edge
of this great cliff. The fact that the cable is almost a mile long and fixed at
top and bottom only gives you the sense of scale.
The ride up is sensational, if a little hair-raising. From the top, there are
incredible vistas back down the valley; turn the other way to view a far more
desolate landscape of rocky peaks that is often snowbound until early summer.
There are hiking paths from here into the high ground, but the classic route
is round the rocks to a lonely upper valley (complete with rustic refuge-hotel
serving refreshments) and then down into the main valley via a forest-shaded
track. The views change constantly and it's one of Spain's finest day walks.
## Related Articles
* [10 Birds in Cantabria, Spain][4]
12 May 2011
* [Holiday in Spain: Cantabria introduction][5]
13 May 2011
** **
**2 MONASTERY OF SANTO TORIBIO**
On the way back to Potes from Fuente De, there's a turn-off on the right to
this Roman Catholic monastery that contains a relic that many believe is the
largest remaining part of the True Cross, brought here by Santo (Saint)
Toribio from Jerusalem. Religiously important, the site dates back at least
1,200 years; the existing building is 13th century and has a notable baroque
chapel.
Just as enlightening for many people is the viewpoint a short walk further
along the road, next to a chapel; there are superb panoramas down the valley
towards Fuente De and in the other direction to the town of Potes, nestling in
its verdant bowl.
It's easy to imagine that divine inspiration was responsible for the nearby
gorge, through which Potes is reached from the coast. The Desfiladero de la
Hermida has vertical sides crowned with spires and towers of rock and the road
through it is a feat of engineering.
**3 PUERTO DE SAN GLORIO**
The final recommendation around the Picos de Europa area is the mountain pass
on the border of Cantabria and the neighbouring region of Castilla y Leon.
The views from here are spellbinding.From Potes, the road heads south and then
climbs to the west, twisting in and out of heavily forested slopes. Almost at
the top there's a pullout with a chamois statue and the first of the vistas. To
the south east, strange-shaped peaks poke out of the clouds; it's especially
beautiful in the morning.
A little further on, at the pass itself and 5,300ft above sea level, a lane
heads off to a small car park next to a hill capped by a bear statue (there
are indeed bears in the area, though they are rarely seen). There's a
wonderful panorama of the Liebana branch valley mentioned earlier and beyond
to the Picos themselves. It's a great place for a picnic, watched over by
bemused cows.
** **
**4 CAVES OF EL SOPLAO**
Cantabria is one of the world's "hunting grounds" for speliologists; the
region is riddled with more than 6,000 of them. In many of these caves have
been found ancient paintings of a quality rarely found elsewhere. The finest
are at Altamira near Santillana del Mar, though the drawings of bison and
other beasts are so precious that entrance to the caves is restricted to avoid
damage from human breath and heat generation. An excellent life-size
reproduction and museum have been constructed nearby.
Original cave paintings can be seen more easily at other sites, especially
around Puente Viesgo and Ramales de la Victoria, but the El Soplao caves,
south of San Vicente de la Barquera, are famous for the works of art created
by nature, not man.
The calcite-infused water that drips through this subterranean network has
created elaborate formations that go beyond the usual stalagmites. They grow
sideways!
A large section of the caves is accessed on board a fun mining train - it was
miners who stumbled upon them. It's also possible to undertake a more in-depth
guided exploration with helmets, lamps and special boots.
**5 CABÁRCENO NATURE PARK **
A short way inland from Santander is an excellent wildlife park that is both
enthralling and educational. More of a safari park than a zoo - the largest of
its kind in Europe, in fact -- the many species are free to roam, with the
accent on making habitats as natural as possible. The large amount of breeding
pairs are witness to this.
Everything you'd expect to find is here; lions, tigers, elephants, rhinos,
giraffes, kangaroos and so on. A network of paths leads to many viewpoints.
There's a reptile house, children's playground and souvenir shop, plus several
trout fishing lakes. It's actually on the site of an old mine, but don't let
that put you off as the landscape is fascinating.
The wildlife section is part of a much large natural park, the Peña Cabarge,
the karstic geology of which presents many weird rock formations, sinkholes
and caves. The mineworks go back to at least Roman times.
**6 SAJA-BESAYA NATURAL PARK**
While the summer visitors flock to the Picos de Europa, the Saja-Besaya park to
the east is a place where the fauna outnumbers people. This vast area, between
the Saja and Besaya rivers that run to Cantabria's coast, contains mountains,
pastures and some of the best-preserved deciduous forest in Europe.
The picturesque medieval village of Barcena Mayor is the focal point and is a
protected historic-artistic zone with claims to be the oldest town in
Cantabria. Look out for the local dish, a stew made from beans, cabbage and
black pudding.
It's a starting point for excursions on foot into the untamed landscape,
roamed by the Tudanca cows which are highly regarded for their beef, along
with golden eagles, wild boar, falcons, capercaillie and even the odd bear.
To get there, take the CA-280 road south of Cabezon de la Sal and just enjoy
the ride.
**7 ARGÜESO CASTLE**
With its twin towers built between the 12th and 14th centuries, the Castle of
San Vicente at Argueso is a local landmark. It's the occasional scene of
recreations of medieval life.
The castle stands guards over the Valle of Campoo, which has Cantabria's only
ski resort, in the south west of the region. It's an area that is replete with
several other attractions for a rewarding day excursion.
In particular, it's the source of the Ebro, Spain's largest river. The only
waterway in north Spain that discharges in the Mediterranean rather than the
Atlantic, the Ebro stretches 570 miles from its birthplace in Fontibre.
Down this way you're likely to pass through the agreeable town of Reinosa,
which has the handsome San Sebastian church, with baroque paintings, while a
short drive away is the lovely San Pedro collegiate church at Cervatos, which
is at least 700 years old and boasts intricate sculpted stonework.
**8 RAFT THE RIVER**
The aforementioned Ebro accumulates in the vast eponymous reservoir soon after
its source and then spills out southwards. This is one of the best spots in
Spain for river rafting, a thrilling activity for children and adults.
Qualified outfitters will take you for a two- or three-hour ride down the rapids
and eddies of the river, with all equipment supplied. The first section is
easiest, while a little further downstream the swirls and channels become more
challenging as the river heads towards a series of gorges.
Kayaking and inflatable canoe-rafts are also available for use on guided trips,
while you may even want to try a hydrospeed, a personal propulsion device.
Activities usually start in March and continue through the summer.
Similar water sports are available on the Saja and Deva rivers, while the
growing sport of canyoning takes pace at several venues. For land-lubbers,
there are a number of stables that offer guided horse riding.
Most activity locations are scenic enough for non-participants to wile away an
hour or two.
**9 MIERA VALLEY**
You don't have to travel far to find gorgeous scenery in Cantabria. The Miera
valley, due south of Santander, is a timeless world of oak and beech woods,
pastures, old villages, a meandering river and, further down, impressive
limestone massifs. An excellent overview can be gained from a viewpoint up
some steps towards the end of the valley.
Several caves are hidden among the scenery, along with paths to suit all
levels of hiker, from an hour's stroll to more strenuous trails that can also
be used for mountain biking. If you've packed your fishing gear, get a licence
to try for salmon and trout in the Miera river.
The imposing church of Santa Maria de Miera, open in high summer, has a
notable 17th-century romanesque altarpiece; also look out for the pretty 18th-
century bridge over the river.
The roads in this serene valley have been recently improved and, being so
close to Santander, the Miera valley is an ideal place for an afternoon's
drive.
**10 ASÓN WATERFALL **
You'll feel like a real explorer coming to Los Collados del Ason nature park
in the east of the region, with its tall waterfall in a striking setting. So
undiscovered by tourists is this area that there's little about it on the
internet, yet in parts it has some of the best scenery in north Spain. And
it's only a gentle hour's drive from the lively resort of Laredo on the coast.
That's the beauty of Cantabria; you can have a completely new type of holiday
within half an hour of leaving the old one behind!
Ramales de la Victoria is the obvious place to head for, a friendly town with
a large square, close to some impressive mountains.
The 200ft waterfall, which spills over a cliff and is especially voluminous in
late spring, can be viewed from a road through a valley south-west of the
town. The hike to its base is trickier than it may appear.
The beguiling scenery in this area is like a Swiss cheese - there are hundreds
of caves - and is dotted with timeless old villages, along with a large number
of old oak trees.
**For more on things to see in Cantabria, visit [www.cantabriabycar.com][6]**
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Here's your chance to win a return cruise-ferry crossing from the UK's south
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Take the Brittany Ferries service from Portsmouth or Plymouth to Santander and
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From chalets and quaint casas to luxurious escapes, Debbie Toms picks her top
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