2013-04-16 10:05:26 +02:00

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# Holiday in Spain: food in Cantabria
## On holiday in Cantabria, Annie Bennett finds the imaginative use of
natural local ingredients, along with regional wine, to be a real highlight.
![Pinchos][1]
Image 1 of 2
Cantabria treats: tasty pinchos
![Mussels served with vermouth][2]
Image 1 of 2
Cantabria treats: mussels served with vermouth
3:40PM BST 13 May 2011
One of the most memorable dishes I have eaten recently was inspired by the
Cantabrian coast at low tide. Featuring clams and seaweed, it was an exquisite
composition of delicate flavours, aromas and textures that did indeed evoke the
sensation of walking on the sand, listening to the sound of the waves rolling
gently on to the shore.
The dish was created by Alfonso Higuera, who has taken over the restaurant at
San Roman de Escalante, an elegant luxury hotel in a grand country house that
dates back to the 17th century. Set in beautiful grounds, it's near the
Santoña nature reserve on the Costa Trasmiera east of Santander (it's bookable
through Brittany Ferries).
One of Spain's most interesting young chefs, Higuera accompanied Óscar
Calleja, another rising star on the Spanish restaurant scene, to Shanghai last
year to represent Cantabria at the World Expo. The two chefs have similar
ideas about how to take Cantabrian cuisine to the next level, and I can highly
recommend their restaurants.
Calleja is at the helm at the Annua restaurant in San Vicente de la Barquera.
Annua is set right on the sea, at the mouth of the San Vicente estuary, where
the mix of fresh and salt water creates a rich ecosystem that is ideal for
cultivating oysters, which of course feature on the menu.
Both Higuera and Calleja are fanatical about using the best local ingredients,
whether lobster, scallops, anchovies from Santoña, Tudanca beef or artisan
cheeses from the Pas valley or the Liebana area in the foothills of the Picos
de Europa mountain range.
## Related Articles
* [Recipe: Cantabrian cheese cake][3]
12 May 2011
* [10 Great Restaurants in Santander][4]
12 May 2011
* [Recipe: Cocido montanes][5]
12 May 2011
* [Holiday in Spain: Cantabria introduction][6]
13 May 2011
Both are keen on incorporating the different varieties of algae that grow
along the coast into their repertoire, as I was so fortunate to experience at
San Roman de Escalante.
Like Higuera, Calleja is interested in recreating the landscapes of his
homeland in his cuisine and serves a fabulous venison dish inspired by the
forests, where wild mushrooms are used to represent the undergrowth.
While this cooking is highly creative, both chefs are very clear that what
they are doing is developing the traditional Cantabrian recipes that are
typical of family meals all over the region. You'll find local specialities in
each area, whether on the coast or inland.
**Delicious seafood **
Given the 130 miles of coastline, seafood obviously plays a huge part in
Cantabrian meals. One of my favourite restaurants in Santander is El Marucho,
a totally unpretentious place where the focus is firmly on the freshest,
tastiest shellfish. Run by the same family for 70 years, this is a restaurant
where you install yourself at a marble table, tuck your napkin under your chin
and give your undivided attention to your lunch.
You have to try the rabas, as squid is called in Cantabria, expertly fried in
a crispy batter, and the goose barnacles, which are gathered from the rocks
and taste of the sea. Then there are the razor clams, prawns, spider crab…
With this seafood extravaganza, you should drink an albariño white wine, which
is produced in small quantities in Cantabria, as well as in Galicia, where the
grape comes from.
**Local produce **
From Santander, you could drive south-east to the valleys of the Ason and Soba
rivers to try the trout, salmon and eels. The abundant woodland means there
are wonderful mushrooms in the autumn, while the green meadows provide
excellent pasture for sheep, cattle and goats. Roast kid, marinated in herbs,
is one of the most typical dishes here, and you should also look out for the
delicious Las Garmillas cheese, which is made in the village of Ampuero and
tastes rather like camembert.
A dish you will come across all over Cantabria is _cocido montañes_, a tasty
stew that is made with butter beans, pork ribs, black pudding, chorizo and
alocal cabbage. It is however most typical of the Saja-Nansa area in the west,
where there are characterful restaurants in villages such as Cabuerniga,
Barcena Mayor and Ruente.
Further west in the mountain villages of Liebana, the dish to try is the
hearty _cocido lebaniego_, made with chickpeas and pork and served with a sort
of deep-fried dumpling made from breadcrumbs, parsley, garlic and egg.
Also superb are the steaks of Tudanca beef, with the local Tresviso blue
cheese melted over the top. Be sure to order a Liebana red wine to drink with
your meal, which is made with the mencia grape, an ancient variety that has a
distinctive fruity flavour.
**Something sweet**
If you have a sweet tooth, look out for _quesada pasiega_, a cheesecake that
is the speciality of the Pas valley. If you go there and see the cows grazing
on the lush, green rolling hills, you will immediately understand why the area
is renowned for its dairy products.
The quesada is made with the fresh local cheese, which is mixed with butter,
eggs and flour and flavoured with cinnamon and lemon zest.
Wherever you choose to eat in Cantabria, a lot of the ingredients will be
locally sourced and freshly prepared. From seafood platters on seaside
terraces to cosy mountain taverns and chic city gastro bars, you can have a
different gourmet experience on every day of your holiday.
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## [Brittany Ferries][12]
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* [![Brittany Ferries][15]][16]
Brittany Ferries competition
### [Win a trip to Cantabria][17]
[![Win a trip to Cantabria][18]][17]
Here's your chance to win a return cruise-ferry crossing from the UK's south
coast to Santander, courtesy of Brittany Ferries.
[**Enter the Brittany Ferries competition here**][17].
The closing date is June 30, 2011.
Travel with Brittany Ferries
### [Travel with Brittany Ferries][19]
[![Brittany Ferries: Cap Finistere][20] ][19]
Take the Brittany Ferries service from Portsmouth or Plymouth to Santander and
you get a wonderful mini-cruise as part of your holiday.
### [Where to stay in Cantabria][21]
[![Cantabria accommodation: Hotel Torre de la Ruesga][22] ][21]
From chalets and quaint casas to luxurious escapes, Debbie Toms picks her top
places to stay in Cantabria, Spain.
### [Cantabria holiday accommodation][23]
[![Hotel El Rebeco, Fuente De][24] ][23]
There are many fantastic places to stay when you travel to Cantabria with
Brittany Ferries. Here's some of the very best.
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