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foodanddrink
wine
7370187
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# French wine: The Gallic resistance
## French wine is all about value over volume. And who cares if we are losing
out at the cheapest level?
![Gallic wines: French wines are falling behind in terms of sales volumes in
Britain][1]
Slim pickings? French wines are falling behind in terms of sales volumes in
Britain Photo: ALAMY
By Jonathan Ray 6:07PM GMT 04 Mar 2010
[Comments][2]
Pity the poor French. Their wine sales are in freefall (down 12-16 per cent on
last year, depending on which figures you believe) and only this week they
suffered the further ignominy of being overtaken by South Africa in terms of
volume of sales in Britain. And, as we all know, the French have lagged
similarly behind Australia for years. Oh, and California and Italy. Mon Dieu,
qu'est-ce qu'il se passe?
Chris, my wine-loving neighbour, isn't surprised. He gave up drinking French a
year ago and hasn't looked back.
"I felt I was being continually ripped off," he says. "The wines seem
overpriced compared to others and the French continue to be wilfully obtuse by
refusing to put grape varieties on the label. I'm far happier with New World
wines and the occasional Rioja or Barolo."
His wife, Sally, though, would rather drink nothing but French wine - they are
the Mr and Mrs Jack Spratt of wine lovers.
"There is just so much variety," she explains. "From Alsace to the Languedoc,
the Rhone to Bordeaux, with hundreds of different grape varieties and styles.
They have centuries of expertise and I never tire of them. I think Chris is a
mug."
Well, since Chris has got me tickets to the rugby, I won't hear a word against
him. But he's a mug. I couldn't be as extreme as Sally and stick solely to
French wine, but nor could I ever give it up completely. What, no more
champagne? Cru classe claret, Alsace riesling or Loire chenin? And what about
the treasures of the Rhone and the Languedoc?
As with food, a healthy diet is a varied diet and I will continue to
intersperse the former with my New Zealand sauvignons, California zinfandels
and swanky Tuscans.
Besides, the figures currently bandied about are misleading, for France still
sells more wine in Britain by value than anyone else - some £728?million worth
last year - and Britain remains its biggest export market, ahead of the United
States by a nose.
Bear in mind that where the French have lost volume of sales is in the entry-
level category (under £5 a bottle). If this is what we're losing out on, who
cares? There is little profit for the producers here and very little value to
be had for the consumer. In the £5-£10 bracket, however, France is doing well
and catching up with Australia.
France continues to make great wine - just wait until you taste some of the
2009 clarets - but fails miserably to market them well. Unlike South Africa,
say, or Chile, Australia or New Zealand, all of whom have well?funded generic
bodies in Britain promoting their wines, France doesn't. Each region wants to
be master of its own destiny rather than band with others to promote France as
a whole. The very diversity that makes France so attractive to wine lovers
makes it impossible to market in an orderly fashion.
And times are changing. New regulations come in to force on August 1 which
will create a new category - Vin de France. This will allow greater
flexibility as to which grape varieties might be used where and - Chris will
be happy - will permit whichever variety to be spelt out on the label. A
positive step, this, which can only help France compete better against the New
World.
Allez les Bleus!
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resistance.html
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