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foodanddrink
foodanddrinkbooks
8189061
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# Desert island cookbooks: Sir Terence Conran
## Sir Terence Conran, the man who changed the face of London dining, shows
us the cookbooks he can't live without
![Sir Terence Conran][1]
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Sir Terence Conran Photo: Benjamin Quinton
![Sir Terence Conran's desert island cookbooks ][2]
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Sir Terence Conran's desert island cookbooks Photo: Benjamin Quinton
Interview by Carolyn Hart 8:00AM GMT 10 Dec 2010
[Comments][3]
_Knighted in 1983 and named as Britain's most influential restaurateur in
2005, Sir Terence Conran has produced more than 30 books on food and interior
design and created restaurants and shops as diverse as the Soup Kitchen and
the Conran Shop, Mezzo, Pont de la Tour, Habitat and the Blueprint Cafe. He
almost single-handedly changed the face of London dining by introducing the
idea of delicious and unfussy Provençal cooking served in an unpretentious
setting of simple round tables, bentwood chairs and modern art. _
My first book would be Elizabeth David's Classics, which first appeared in
1950 when almost every essential ingredient of good cooking was either
rationed or unobtainable in this country. Through this book, and also her
French Provincial Cooking, which would be my second cookbook, Elizabeth
introduced the nation to such exotic foreign fare as garlic and olive oil, and
as a result I don't think it's an exaggeration to say that she taught a whole
generation how to cook - and also how to eat. It made us all realise that
there was a better style of life just waiting to be tasted across the Channel.
Proof I couldn't do without the Classics is that it's the most dog-eared book
in my collection. I have cooked from it so much that it has practically fallen
apart. David's recipes and John Minton's drawings make my mind wander to warm
sunny days and a life without worries.
My third book would be Larousse Gastronomique. It's an absolute classic of
encyclopaedic proportions. The first edition was published in 1938, edited by
Prosper Montagne with prefaces by Georges Auguste Escoffier and Phileas
Gilbert. No cook, amateur or professional, should be without it. It's a
wonderful reference book, but one that still teaches me new tricks - from
where different recipes originate to technical aspects of preparing food.
Richard Olney, an American who moved to Provence in the south of France, wrote
Simple French Food in 1974, four years after his French Menu Cookbook came
out. Simple French Food is an innovative book chock full of delicious recipes
from one of the 20th century's best food writers. As you would expect,
Richard's recipes are exceptionally well written and demonstrate that simple
food does not mean cooking without craft.
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Arabella Boxer's Garden Cookbook was published in the same year as Simple
French Food and I'd want it on my desert island because Arabella really
connects food to the garden. Thus she'd show you how to make the most of any
fresh produce you happened to be able to grow while in exile, and how to bring
out the inherent flavours when you cooked it.
My last three books have been published more recently. Simon Hopkinson's Roast
Chicken and Other Stories (right) is a beautifully produced and easy-to-use
cookbook written by one of the country's finest chefs. It demonstrates
perfectly how to get the very best out of the finest ingredients without any
complications or plate fiddling.
I've always been a fan of Fergus Henderson's excellent St John restaurant, and
his cookbook Nose to Tail Eating is a perfect reflection of his no-nonsense,
hearty British menus based on game, offal and organic meat. He writes
charmingly and wittily, and Jason Lowe's wonderful photography brings the
recipes to life - my one warning is that you should never buy this book as a
gift for a vegetarian.
Cookbooks produced by restaurants can sometimes be a disaster, but the River
Cafe pulled it off brilliantly with The River Cafe Cook Book. This, and the
other books they published, is a testament to the skills of Ruth Rogers and
the dear, much-missed Rose Gray. It is divided into 12 chapters, one for each
month of the year, keeping the focus on seasonality without feeling gimmicky,
and is packed with easy-to-follow recipes featuring the very best of Italian
country cooking.
My luxury kitchen accessory - assuming that we would be lucky enough to find
white or black truffles on the island - would be a truffle shaver. At any
rate, it would also be useful for radishes and citrus skins. I'd also try to
sneak in a bottle of Tanqueray gin, which is something else that is always
handy to have around.
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