2013-04-16 10:05:26 +02:00

166 lines
4.8 KiB
Plaintext
Executable File

foodanddrink
6247018
-----
# The Kitchen Thinker: faster food
## Fast food: Bee Wilson on the art of whipping up a delicious main meal in a
matter of minutes.
![The Kitchen Thinker: faster food
][1]
Photo: TOBY MORISON
By Bee Wilson 6:50AM BST 02 Oct 2009
[Comments][2]
Not having the time to cook, says Ching-He Huang, leaves her 'incredibly
unhappy'. So now, 'No matter how busy I am, I always find the time to prepare
food.'
Her latest book, the follow-up to the bestselling Chinese Food Made Easy, is
Ching's Chinese Food in Minutes. I didn't quite get Ching the first time
around. Now I am a convert. Her recipes are healthy and flavoursome: spicy
Sichuan aubergine, wok-fried crispy scallops. But mainly what I love about the
new book is the super-short cooking times. Who can resist rice-wine tomato
king prawns (prep time 10 minutes, cook in eight)? Or garlic spinach (prep
time five minutes, cook in two)? Ready, steady, cook!
Ching is not the first person to attempt to squeeze the arts of the kitchen
into the fewest possible minutes. One of Nigel Slater's early books was the
delightful The 30-minute Cook, in which he confessed that his 'favourite meals
are still the ones I eat with a fork, standing up in the kitchen with one eye
on the telly'. Thirty minutes, Slater reckoned, was enough for a main course
and salad. 'If I have a whole hour then I will make a pudding too.' Less
successful was Steven Wheeler's 20 minute Cookbook from 1998, which claimed it
was possible to make French onion soup or Spanish tortilla - both famously
slow-cooking dishes - in 20 minutes.
All of these speedy cookbooks are essentially throwbacks to the great master
of fast cuisine, Edouard de Pomiane, whose Cooking in 10 Minutes, first
published in 1948, remains a classic. Ten minutes, he maintained, is quite
'sufficient' to prepare a three-course meal, so long as you have a gas stove
with two burners and light the gas the minute you come home. 'If you wish to
grill something, turn on the grill before you take off your hat.'
A typical Pomiane menu is poached eggs with black butter; fried fillets of
veal; green peas; salad with cream dressing; cheese; fruit. Or here is
another: pumpkin soup; cod a la creme; green peas; cheese; Mokka biscuits.
## Related Articles
* [Fast and delicious recipes][3]
16 Apr 2009
You may notice that 'green peas' crop up a lot. This is because Pomiane oddly
insists that, while 10 minutes is enough to make meat or fish and a sauce, 'it
is impossible' to cook vegetables 'in such a short time'. Therefore, he
advises buying green peas in a tin and dressing them up with cream, ham or
bacon.
I would not eat Pomiane's style of food every night - ox kidney bearnaise is
one of his favourites. But I dip into his book when I need succour from the
daily business of managing PE kits, piano practice and bath time and somehow
getting supper on the table, too. When I edited a cookbook for my son's school
([whatsfortea.org][4]) one of the contributors told me she would only cook
things that could be managed between 6pm and 6.25pm - the time it took her
children to watch The Simpsons.
The rakish Pomiane is a world away from such domestic concerns. After the
10-minute meal has been slowly consumed, he recommends sitting in a
comfortable armchair with a cup of coffee and a cigarette - 'Turkish or
Virginian, according to your particular weakness. Send a puff of smoke slowly
up to the ceiling. Sniff up the perfume of your coffee. Close your eyes. Dream
of the second puff, of the second sip.'
[X][5] Share & bookmark
Delicious Facebook Google Messenger Reddit Twitter
Digg Fark LinkedIn Google Buzz StumbleUpon Y! Buzz
[What are these?][6]
* Share: [Share][5] [ ][7] [ ][8]
[Tweet][9]
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/6247018/The-Kitchen-Thinker-faster-
food.html
Telegraph
## [Food and Drink][10]
* ### [Lifestyle »][11]
[![Disparity by Christopher Boffoli: everyday scenes created using food and
toy figures][12] ][13]
### [Tiny people in your food][13]
[![Pancake Day recipe: cinnamon, banana and chocolate crepes, Five Minute
Food][14] ][15]
### [Pancake Day: how to make perfect crepes][15]
[![Alan Sailer's high-speed pictures of the moment pellets fired from an air
gun hit objects][16] ][17]
### [Faster than a bullet][17]
[![][18] ][19]
### [Meals on your fingers][19]
[X][5] Share & bookmark
Delicious Facebook Google Messenger Reddit Twitter
Digg Fark LinkedIn Google Buzz StumbleUpon Y! Buzz
[What are these?][6]
Share:
* [ ][5]
* [ ][7]
* [ ][8]
* [Tweet][9]
* Advertisement
![][20]
telegraphuk
Please enable JavaScript to view the [comments powered by Disqus.][21] [blog
comments powered by Disqus][22]
[![wineshop_v2][23]][24]
Advertisement
sponsored features
Loading
Wine Offers
* [OFFERS][25]
* [RED WINE][26]
* [WHITE WINE][27]
Loading
var puffs_8122053 = new Array();