2013-04-16 10:05:26 +02:00

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foodanddrink
8330437
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# Tried and tested: coffee machines
## Our weekly column sources the best gadgets, shops and food. Today: coffee
machines
![Crema vs. crema: De Longhi?s Prima Donna espresso machine is self-cleaning
and endlessly adjustable ? but at a cost
][1]
Crema vs. crema: De Longhi?s Prima Donna espresso machine is self-cleaning and
endlessly adjustable ? but at a cost
[![Rose Prince][2]][3]
By [Rose Prince][4] 8:00AM GMT 18 Feb 2011
[Follow Rose Prince on Twitter][5]
[Comments][6]
From sloshing down endless cups of Nescafe as a school-leaver, I have grown to
feel the same way about coffee as the buff does about his wine. I put it down
to a week spent in Palermo, Sicily, during which I must have drunk a dangerous
quantity of delicious espresso. Wandering through the scruffy streets of the
old city, I became fixated on the machinery.
The flavour of the beans, I realised, plays only a part in the best cups of
Italian coffee. Equipment, and knowing how to use and care for it, is as
essential. For several years I used a Fifties repro La Pavoni Europiccola - a
cast-brass, lever-operated classic for purists. It could make good coffee, yet
my lack of knowledge of its maintenance could also produce cups that tasted
dirty, bitter and flat.
In matters of food and drink I'd always put artisan before mechanical means,
but modern automatic machines are tempting, especially those that have a
computerised barista and a ''nanny'' to remind them to wash behind their ears,
so to speak.
DeLonghi's automatic Prima Donna ''bean to cup'' machine is designed to look
after itself, rinsing as it is switched on, and off, then issuing clear
instructions on a lit screen should it need refills of coffee or water; or the
waste containers to be emptied, or descaling. This last process, essential if
you have hard mains water and want good espresso, is very important because it
is key to the machine's long life.
It makes divine, powerful yet smooth-flavoured coffee, quickly. There is a
deep, tan crema on the espresso. You can add whole beans and it grinds just
enough for each cup (you can also use ready ground). It has a memory and you
can set the strength of the coffee, the amount in a cup and the temperature,
which I set quite low so the flavour of the coffee is clearer (warm the cups
on top of the machine first.)
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To make the various types of coffee - macchiato, espresso, cappuccino, latte,
long black and so on - you push buttons; the milk is placed in a purpose-made
jug to keep in the fridge and is pumped into the heater. In this respect only,
I would have preferred a simple tube to dangle in the milk jug and attach to a
pump. Prima Donna costs £1,195, is guaranteed for two years and DeLonghi
promises over-the-phone advice.
I spent an hour testing machines in Selfridges, where over a dozen are ready
to use. A price drop from computerised models brings you to the good-value
£300 Gaggia Classic, from the inventors of the piston-driven (levered)
machine. This does not buy a brain like that in the Prima Donna, but you get a
traditional-looking, pump-action coffee maker. It has a hot shelf for cups on
top and makes very good coffee, if slightly hot (for me); and it has an
excellent steamer for frothing milk. It takes ground coffee and coffee
capsules.
Selfridges also sells a baby machine by Lavazza, called A Modo Mio (£125) that
takes coffee capsules (from Sainsburys and Waitrose; £4.50, 16 caps).
Selfridges offers a 12-month guarantee and specialist advice.
* Coffee roasters: a new discovery is Square Mile, based in the East End of
London. Its Espresso blend and Single Estate espresso coffees are special;
**[www.squaremilecoffee.com][13]**
* **[www.delonghi.co.uk][14]** Contact for stockists
* **[www.selfridges.com][15]**
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http://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/8330437/Tried-and-tested-coffee-
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