214 lines
6.1 KiB
Plaintext
Executable File
214 lines
6.1 KiB
Plaintext
Executable File
foodanddrink
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8286811
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# Tried and tested: British cheeses
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## Our weekly column sources the best gadgets, shops and food. Today: cheese
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![Cheese, where is thy sting? A nettle-wrapped Cornish Yarg
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][1]
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Cheese, where is thy sting? A nettle-wrapped Cornish Yarg Photo: ANDREW
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CROWLEY
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[![Rose Prince][2]][3]
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By [Rose Prince][4] 2:38PM GMT 28 Jan 2011
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[Follow Rose Prince on Twitter][5]
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[Comments][6]
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It makes sense that the milk from a grass-fed cow is a healthier food. Give an
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animal the diet it has evolved to eat and it will be healthy; and healthy
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animals surely yield healthy food. But the debate rumbles on all the same.
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While scientists endlessly dispute the balance of essential fatty acids in
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both grass-fed, organic and conventionally concentrate- fed cattle. I just
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carry on eating the cheeses I love, regardless of how wholesome they are
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deemed to be.
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And I have been eating a lot of cheese recently. Melting slabs of it and
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eating it on toast with clear runny honey flavoured with herbs; or crumbled
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into salads of winter endives, with thin slices of apple. I grate the hardest
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cheeses over bowls of broth with vegetables and small pasta shapes, or pare
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thin rashers of cheese using a hot knife, raclette-style, and eat with crisp
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pancetta on bread.
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There's a strong Continental bent to my cheese-eating habits. I grew up eating
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French cheeses - gruyere with its uncompromisingly smooth texture, Comte-style
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cheeses studded with bubbles; semi-soft creamy cheeses with orchard flavours
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made in the foothills of the Alps; and fresh cheeses with bloomy rind, whose
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innards ran all over the cheese board.
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When the British and Irish artisan cheese-making revival took off, no one
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could have been more pleased than I, but privately I hoped the reawakening
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would include some Continental taste-alikes. It did, though it must be said
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that the many modern British cheeses that have been created in this time are
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equally welcome.
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## Related Articles
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* [Tried and tested: low-power cookers][7]
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14 Jan 2011
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* [Tried and tested: an artisan tea][8]
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06 Jan 2011
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* [The perfect hunter's lunch][9]
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05 Nov 2010
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* [Tried and tested: sprouts][10]
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19 Nov 2010
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* [Rose Prince's recipes for November][11]
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04 Nov 2010
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* [Tried & tested: gluten-free bread][12]
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20 Jan 2011
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I have been eating a lot of Coolea cheese recently. This is a cheese from
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County Cork that has been consistently delicious since Dick and Sinead Willems
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began making it as a hobby in 1979.
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I visited the dairy about five years ago and was surprised to find a cheese
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that brought back memories of the best-pressed European cheeses. Small bubbles
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dot the smooth, firm interior of Coolea. The flavour conjures delicious tones
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of walnuts and cream.
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This is my favourite cheese to shave over hot dishes of sauteed cauliflower or
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purple sprouting broccoli (though another Cork cheese, St Gall, comes close).
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These days, Coolea is made by the Willems's son, Dicky, and London importer
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Randolph Hodgson is full of praise even 30 years after it hit our shores.
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Hodgson has also had a hand in another cheese: one which evokes skiing
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holidays. The search for a characterful British melting cheese has ended with
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Ogleshield; a buttery raclette taste-alike that turns to a fragrant runny
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cream when hot.
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Ogleshield is made by Jamie Montgomery, who also makes an outstanding cheddar
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at his Somerset dairy. Ogleshield is made with milk from Jersey cows, hence
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its beautiful buttercup colour. It is a washed rind cheese (the method
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developed by Hodgson and his colleague William Oglethorpe) and the flavour of
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the semi-soft inner curd has a heady, fruity power as a result. It is still a
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lovely cheese when eaten cold, too.
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With the Valentine's fest approaching, the makers of Cornish Yarg have made a
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heart-shaped version. Yarg is a modern British cheese made by the Mead family,
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but reminds me of the triple cream cheeses of France with their bloomy outer
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rind and combination of creaminess and crumbliness inside.
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Matured in a wrapping of nettles, the flavour of this cheese rings with fresh
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herb notes, hand-churned West Country butter and lemon. Ben Mead is dedicated
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to feeding his cows a natural diet, and has carried out a Nuffield
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Scholarship-funded study into the health benefits of natural grass feeding on
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both cows and their milk.
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The result is no surprise - it's better for you. But we always knew that.
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* Ogleshield £21.15 per kilo; Coolea, £28.55 per kilo; Cornish Yarg £21.85
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per kilo, all from Neals Yard Dairy (**[www.nealsyarddairy.co.uk][13]**).
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You'll find shops in Borough Market, London SE1, and Covent Garden, London
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WC2, and mail order is available
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* Cornish Yarg Hearts 750g, £25 are available from Lynher Dairies by mail
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order (**[www.lynherdairies.co.uk][14]**)
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[X][15] Share & bookmark
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Delicious Facebook Google Messenger Reddit Twitter
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Digg Fark LinkedIn Google Buzz StumbleUpon Y! Buzz
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[What are these?][16]
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* Share: [Share][15] [ ][17] [ ][18]
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[Tweet][19]
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http://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/8286811/Tried-and-tested-British-
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cheeses.html
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Telegraph
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## [Food and Drink][20]
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* ### [Lifestyle »][21]
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* ### [Rose Prince »][3]
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[![Disparity by Christopher Boffoli: everyday scenes created using food and
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toy figures][22] ][23]
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### [Tiny people in your food][23]
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[![Pancake Day recipe: cinnamon, banana and chocolate crepes, Five Minute
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Food][24] ][25]
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### [Pancake Day: how to make perfect crepes][25]
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[![Alan Sailer's high-speed pictures of the moment pellets fired from an air
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gun hit objects][26] ][27]
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### [Faster than a bullet][27]
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[![][28] ][29]
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### [Meals on your fingers][29]
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[X][15] Share & bookmark
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Delicious Facebook Google Messenger Reddit Twitter
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Digg Fark LinkedIn Google Buzz StumbleUpon Y! Buzz
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[What are these?][16]
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Share:
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* [ ][15]
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* [ ][17]
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* [ ][18]
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* [Tweet][19]
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* Advertisement
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![][30]
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telegraphuk
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Please enable JavaScript to view the [comments powered by Disqus.][31] [blog
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comments powered by Disqus][32]
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[![wineshop_v2][33]][34]
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sponsored features
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Wine Offers
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* [OFFERS][35]
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