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foodanddrink
8272374
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# Tried & tested: gluten-free bread
## Our new weekly column sources the best gadgets, shops and food. Today:
gluten-free bread
![Slice of life: gluten-free bread can struggle to taste bready
][1]
Slice of life: gluten-free bread can struggle to taste bready
[![Rose Prince][2]][3]
By [Rose Prince][4] 5:52PM GMT 20 Jan 2011
[Follow Rose Prince on Twitter][5]
[Comments][6]
When I was growing up, the after-dinner coffee tray was just that: coffee,
brown sugar crystals and cream. No tea - and definitely no herbal. If my
father had lived to hear someone ask for fresh mint or green tea, the
explosion would have been heard across county borders.
Yet coffee is not the only victim of fashionable beliefs and doctor's
warnings. Fellow diners sit on their hands when the bread basket is put on the
restaurant table and my girlfriends pat their tummies, shaking their heads,
when they talk about bread.
Excuses for this self-denial include ''bloating". It is all terrifically
''Western"; only in Britain could anyone fuss about bread, for pity's sake.
Yet coeliacs, the group for whom gluten, the protein that gives bread dough
its elasticity, is a real danger, long to eat bread. Mothers of coeliac
children are forever in search of the holy grail: the gluten-free loaf that
looks and tastes like ordinary sliced bread.
Almost all children hate to stand out from the crowd, and unwrapping a packed
lunch containing a ''sandwich'' made from bread resembling pin board is an
embarrassment they learn to dread.
When I first heard of Genius, a gluten-free loaf that seems just like "normal
bread", I sent it to Verity, a 15 year-old with zero tolerance for gluten. She
gave it a good write-up. It passed the ''sandwich test'' and her mother found,
unusually for gluten free, it made a good wheaty breadcrumb coating for fish.
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Genius was developed by Lucinda Bruce-Gardyne, who wanted to create bread that
her young, wheat-intolerant son would enjoy. The grains in her bread include
tapioca flour, rice bran and millet flakes, and the unusually springy, real
bread-ish texture is achieved with potato starch, egg white, xanthan gum,
sugar beet flakes and yeast; ingredients that while not 100 per cent natural,
are not nasty either.
I was suspicious that enzyme processing aids had been added to soften the
bread. There is some debate about these additives, which are widely used in
commercial baking; they're not listed as an ingredient on the label because it
is claimed they are destroyed in the baking process. Genius would not reveal
if they are used in the recipe.
Genius looks, feels and smells bready. When you bite either the white or
brown, something quite odd happens: it breaks rather than tears. The flavour
of the brown is quite treacly, the white more savoury.
Both, as expected when the dough is made from such flavour-challenged grains,
taste salty - six slices would meet a small child's recommended daily
allowance of 3g, which is not much. For many with a serious wheat intolerance,
however, Genius will be a breakthrough. It is available in all main
supermarkets, or online.
Also recommended are some of the breads made by Artisan Bread Organic, a
bakery whose solid loaves might resemble materials bought from Travis Perkins
but which are nicely crafted using ingredients that have real grainy flavour.
These are not "sliced and wrapped" impersonators; none is made with commercial
yeast but a natural, gluten-free leaven made from a ferment of grain and
honey.
Its gluten-free breads include those made with rice, buckwheat, quinoa,
linseed and pea.
* Genius: [**www.geniusglutenfree.com**][13], 400g loaf £2.49. Alternatively
contact 0845 8744000 for stockists
* Artisan Bread Organic: [**www.artisanbread-abo.com**][14], 400g loaves
from £2.60 - can be frozen if bought in bulk. Alternatively inquire about
stockists on 01227 771881
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http://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/8272374/Tried-and-tested-gluten-free-
bread.html
Telegraph
## [Food and Drink][20]
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* ### [Rose Prince »][3]
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