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# Tried and tested: sprouts
## Our new weekly column sources the best gadgets, shops and food. Today: the
sprout, from soggy blob to budding star
![A classic brassica? Flower sprouts
][1]
A classic brassica? Flower sprouts Photo: MARKS & SPENCER
By Rose Prince 7:31PM GMT 19 Nov 2010
Anyone with a love of all things miniature will coo over flower sprouts. The
latest innovation in vegetable refinement has resulted in a Lilliputian
cabbage, darkish green tinted with ruby. They are gorgeous to look at, but are
they really sprouts?
When I was growing up, I knew only one type of sprout and it came from
Brussels - allegedly. Enormous, acid yellow, sulphurous and soggy, it was the
bane of winter lunchtimes and the downside of Christmas.
The conventional way to prepare them so they were evenly cooked was with a
cross nicked in the stem. All this did, in the end, was allow boiled water to
seep inside, destroying any hope of crunch when you bit in.
Sprouts were, not to exaggerate, a good enough reason to emigrate (the English
novelist Ford Madox Ford wrote that among the many things he loved about
Provence was that the sprout could not grow there "at all" - a statement that
is not actually true).
But this would now seem unfair. The sprout-growing fraternity, nothing if not
determined, spent decades reinventing the vegetable, breeding sweeter, denser
and smaller varieties and losing the rank smell and flavour. No cross is
needed in the stem anymore.
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After that came ''sprout trees'', or the sale of the whole stalk. Cut straight
from the (inedibly tough) stalk, the sprouts taste fresher and less starchy;
they are not the gimmick they appear to be and are worth buying over sprouts
that are cut loose, even if awkward to carry.
Next, we had sprout tops, the cabbage tip of the plant with tiny sprouts
growing at its base, formerly given to cattle. This is humble food, but since
learning to dress sprout tops with hot butter or olive oil, lemon juice and
rosemary, I have not looked back, and love them dearly.
After that on the sprout's continuing road to chic-dom came red sprouts,
including a new variety, "red delicious", that keeps its colour when boiled.
Flavour-wise they are disappointing. Their beauty, it must be said, is skin
deep.
And finally we have flower sprouts to add to the brood, developed by British
seed wizards, Tozer, and now farmed in Lincolnshire, Angus and
Gloucestershire. Their season lasts from November to March. These compact
little buds are partly open - there is no tight ball of leaves inside like a
normal sprout, though they are about the same size. Interestingly, flower
sprouts are the result of a ''marriage'' between a brussels sprout and hardy,
creamy, nutritious kale.
I wonder, before trying them, if this could be the moment when sprouts finally
lose the chip on their shoulder and join the ranks of favourite vegetables
like carrots and spuds?
I boiled them in water with a large pinch of salt (to help fix their colour)
for five minutes (for a softer texture they could have been cooked a further
two.)
The verdict: delicious, but these are no longer sprouts. Overwhelmingly,
flower sprouts have the metallic sweetness of kale. Their sproutiness, their
Sproutlichkeit, has gone.
Oddly, though, I expect these new vegetables will be a hit. I'll miss the old
ghoulish orbs. They won't be banned from Christmas: it seems too cruel. But
they may have to share the plate with a blossoming new cousin.
* £1.49 for 140g of flower sprouts, exclusively from Marks & Spencer from
now until March
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http://www.telegraph.co.uk/topics/christmas/8147937/Tried-and-tested-
sprouts.html
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var puffs_8120641 = new Array();