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foodanddrink
seasonal-food-and-drink
7715295
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# How to use mint in your menu
## Taste of summer: now is the perfect time to enjoy the delights of mint,
says Bee Wilson.
![mint plant-how to use mint in your menu][1]
Photo: ANDREW CROWLEY
7:00AM BST 19 May 2010
[Comments][2]
On a scorching afternoon in Paris there is no lovelier place to be than the
_salon de the_ at La Grande Mosquee in the 5th arrondissement (Metro station
Place Monge).
The charm of it is partly the soothing courtyard, with its fig trees and
Islamic art - this is the cafe of the largest mosque in the city. But the real
attraction is the mint tea, which comes heavily sweetened in pretty glasses.
Mint and summer go together like sage and winter. It is the sprightliest of
herbs, whether dispensing its perfume to a pan of new potatoes or a dish of
fresh green peas.
Mint is surprising, too. There are few other herbs that run the gamut of
different cuisines quite so easily. Mint can be British (mint sauce) or
Vietnamese (pho); it can be Indian (mint chutney) or American (mint juleps).
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The thing we call mint is really an entire family of plants - of the genus
Mentha - with several dozen species. As well as the garden mint we know and
love, there is citrus-scented bergamot mint; chocolate mint with its brownish
leaves; yellow-tinged ginger mint; Asian mint (_hung gioi_ in Vietnamese);
Corsican mint with itty-bitty peppermint leaves; and banana mint, which really
does smell ever so slightly of bananas.
One year I decided to make my own mint garden and ordered a profusion of
varieties from Jekka's Herb Farm (jekkasherbfarm.com). They all smelled
wonderful. Yet in all honesty the only kinds I really wanted to eat were
Moroccan and garden mint.
I felt vindicated in this conservatism when I read David Thompson, the great
expert on Thai cooking, and a stickler for authenticity, who says in _Thai
Food_ that 'the best variety to use' is 'common garden mint'.
He notes that, 'Mint is used in almost every Thai salad, but with discretion.
Its fresh menthol flavour cools and refreshes.' (There will be minty Thai
things on offer in London as part of a Thai festival in Trafalgar Square on 5
June.)
I especially love the Thai salad _nahm dtok_, made from grilled meat, ground
roasted rice, lime juice, fish sauce and fresh mint and coriander leaves. The
mint offsets the salt of the meat and the fish sauce.
Mint can also transport you to the Mediterranean. Italians have been cooking
with it since Roman times; Apicius gives a recipe for sardines in mint and
vinegar sauce, which is similar to the _stemperata_ sauce still served with
fish in Sicily.
As in our own mint sauce, I find, the vinegar is a bit much. I prefer another
Sicilian dish: pasta with capers and mint.
You can make the most ordinary pasta and tomato sauce taste sensationally
different and summer holiday-ish by adding a large handful of mint, chopped
together with raw garlic and capers (even if you end up eating it on a British
patio rather than a piazza in Palermo).
And then there's tea. If your normal brew is from a bag, prepare to be amazed
by fresh mint tea. It comes out yellow, not the usual murky brown, and smells
heavenly.
My favourite place to drink it in London is Moro in Exmouth Market, where it
arrives in a glass teapot crammed with fragrant leaves.
It's easy to make at home, too, ideally with Moroccan mint, but garden is
fine. Just add boiling water to a pot filled with the herb. To serve it
Moroccan style, pour from a great height into small glasses.
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to-use-mint-in-your-menu-Bee-Wilson.html
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