232 lines
5.3 KiB
Plaintext
Executable File
232 lines
5.3 KiB
Plaintext
Executable File
travel
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destinations
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europe
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croatia
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5193007
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-----
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# Hvar, Croatia: My kind of town
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## Maeve Haran enjoys Hvar, Croatia, for its beaches, history and tiny fish
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restaurants with neither name nor menu.
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![My kind of town: Hvar][1]
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Image 1 of 2
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Hvar has an ancient fortress and a Franciscan Monastery Photo: GETTY
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![My kind of town: Hvar][2]
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Image 1 of 2
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Maeve Haran recommends taking a boat to little beaches lapped by clear water
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By Maeve Haran 11:13AM BST 21 Apr 2009
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[Comments][3]
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**Why Hvar?**
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Hvar (pronounced "phwoar", much to my children's amusement) is the capital of
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Hvar Island in Croatia. It offers a perfect balance: sunbathing quietly during
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the day before getting dressed up to compete with the types whose yachts adorn
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the Venetian harbour. It has bags of atmosphere and is one of those rare
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destinations that remains a real place, with lots of history and interesting
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sites, from its ancient fortress and Franciscan Monastery to its Venetian
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piazza.
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**What do you miss most when you're away?**
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The unique atmosphere: friendly locals staring at Russian blondes in silver
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minidresses, on the arms of men in dark glasses.
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## Related Articles
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* [Mediterranean island guide: Croatia][4]
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07 Apr 2009
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* [Dalmatian Islands: where to eat and drink][5]
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07 Apr 2009
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* [Sailing in Croatia: 1001 Dalmatians][6]
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01 Apr 2009
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* [Dubrovnik city guide][7]
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27 Mar 2009
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* [Canoeing with teenagers][8]
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19 Jan 2009
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* [Girl's guide to Dubrovnik][9]
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01 Dec 2008
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**What's the first thing you do when you return?**
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Chill out on a sun lounger and swim in the sea.
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**Where's the best place to stay?**
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We went two years running to the smart but friendly Podstine Hotel (00385 21
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740 400; [www.podstine.com;][10] b & b from £166 for two in high season),
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which means "under the cliff". I love it because it is quiet, relaxing and
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beautiful but is just 20 minutes' pleasant stroll along the chic "korzo" to
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the nightlife of Hvar Town.
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**Where would you meet friends for a drink?**
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There are dozens of lovely waterfront cafes. Most are lively and crowded and
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fairly unsophisticated but ritzy restaurants are beginning to appear. The bar
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at Riva, Hvar Yacht Harbour Hotel [(www.suncanihvar.com/riva),][11] on the
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waterfront, features a white colonnade and cubist sofas.
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**Where are your favourite places for lunch?**
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It is delightful to get a small boat or water taxi from the harbour and head
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for the tiny Pakleni Islands, especially Sveti Klement and Palmizana Cove,
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where there are small fish restaurants. We went to one amazing restaurant
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among some ruins that had neither name nor menu, you just ate what they had on
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offer. It was one of those memories you always treasure. I do hope it hasn't
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been turned into a four-star establishment since we last visited.
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**And for dinner?**
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Macondo, Groda (742 850), just behind the main square towards the fortress,
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and Luna (1, Petra Hektorovica; 741 400). Both are great for calamari and
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seafood; booking is vital in high season.
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**Where would you send a first-time visitor?**
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To the little beaches you can only reach by boat and to the famous Blue Grotto
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where the brave even snorkel. But wear sea-shoes - there are loads of sea-
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urchins about. Fortunately the sea is so clear you can see them.
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**What would you tell them to avoid? **
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The loud and garish Carpe Diem disco which has dancers gyrating outside in
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broad daylight.
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**Public transport or taxi?**
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Neither - walk or take a boat to the islands. You can also take a ferry or
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hydrofoil to larger islands and even Dubrovnik if you want to expand your
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culture-loving horizons.
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**Handbag or moneybelt?**
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Handbag across your shoulder is fine. On our last visit tourism was still new
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and there didn't seem to be much crime.
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**What should I take home?**
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Some fabulous woven multicoloured scarves. Handbags. Shells. Sarongs. Some
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local designers' fashions. Handmade jewellery. We made a necklace of our own
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from green glass and raffia we found on the beach which everyone greatly
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admired.
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* Maeve Haran is the author of 'The Lady and the Poet' (Pan Macmillan,
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£6.99)
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**Visit [Dubrovnik, the Dalmatian Coast & Montenegro][12] with [Telegraph
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Riviera Travel][13] [![][14]][12]**
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[X][15] Share & bookmark
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[What are these?][16]
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* Share: [Share][15] [ ][17] [ ][18]
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[Tweet][19]
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http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/destinations/europe/croatia/5193007/My-kind-
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of-town-Hvar.html
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Telegraph
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## [Croatia][20]
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* ### [Travel »][21]
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* ### [Sun and Sea »][22]
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* ### [Europe »][23]
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Related Partners
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* [Cheap holidays to Croatia][24]
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[X][15] Share & bookmark
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Digg Fark LinkedIn Google Buzz StumbleUpon Y! Buzz
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[What are these?][16]
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Share:
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* [ ][15]
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* [ ][17]
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* [ ][18]
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* [Tweet][19]
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* Advertisement
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![][25]
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telegraphuk
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Please enable JavaScript to view the [comments powered by Disqus.][26] [blog
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comments powered by Disqus][27]
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[Europe »][23]
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[Italy][28]
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[France][29]
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[Spain][30]
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[Turkey][31]
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[Greece][32]
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[Portugal][33]
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[Croatia][20]
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[Rest of Europe][34]
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[Holiday Search][35]
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## [Telegraph Cottages »][36]
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