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# The British countryside's natural beauty
## Christopher Middleton discovers how humans and wildlife can live in
harmony together in the most unlikely locations.
![Tern - British Countryside][1]
Species such as the Tern have flourished, thanks to bodies such as the
National Trust
Christopher Middleton 4:34PM BST 28 Jun 2010
In a cloudless blue sky, a snow-white tern hovers hungrily over one small
corner of a lake. As if to give him space, a crowd of smaller, brown birds
flies away from the water's edge, skimming across the bulrushes like tiny
surfers over the tops of waves.
Suddenly, the tern dives down into the water, emerging a second or two later
and then soaring triumphantly back up into the air. You can clearly see the
outline of a fish, struggling in his beak. At least you can until you lose it
against the drab, 15-storey backdrop of Charing Cross Hospital.
Yes, this little slice of rural life is being served up not in the middle of
England's apple-pie countryside, but half a mile from Hammersmith Broadway, at
the Barnes Wetland Centre, in south-west London. Technically, then, this isn't
the countryside, but, when it comes to the preservation and protection of
flora and fauna, the same rules apply here as in the very remotest rural
uplands of the UK.
"If we didn't control this stuff, it would take over the place in 20 years'
time," says John Arbon, the Wetland Centre's reserve manager, pointing at a
mass of phragmites, or Norfolk reeds. "And I mean, take it over completely.
You could say you were letting nature take its course, but at the same time,
you'd lose any kind of biodiversity."
To whit, the 180 species of bird that visit this site in any one year; not to
mention the 24,000 schoolchildren who come to see them. So, while it looks on
the surface as if Mother Nature is in charge of the Barnes Wetland Centre, it
is, in fact, the humans who work for the Wildfowl and Wetlands Trust who are
steering the ship.
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Fifteen years ago, this 100-acre site was just watery gravel pits. Since then,
its two-footed custodians have introduced 27,000 trees, 300,000 plants and all
kinds of animals from slow worms to grass snakes. Because the Thames here is
too salty for freshwater birds, the centre managers get their lake water not
from the handily-placed river, 50 yards away, but from a giant tunnel that
links south-west and north-east London. They've built special wooden platforms
for the terns to nest on, and artificial riverbanks with holes in, for the
sand martens to occupy when they fly over from Africa.
"The crux of the matter," says Arbon, "is that we are both a nature reserve
and a visitor attraction."
As is, of course, the whole of the British countryside. In fact, there's not a
single rural location, however far-flung, where some kind of compromise does
not have to be achieved between the requirements of nature and of humankind.
"Really, there is no such thing as natural countryside," says Jack Neill-Hall,
of the Campaign to Protect Rural England (CPRE). "It's all managed by humans
in one way or another."
Absolutely true, of course, though that management comes in many forms, from
individual volunteers right up to large-scale professional organisations. And
they don't come larger than the National Trust, which, as well as looking
after the country's stately homes, is also responsible for the agricultural
estates on which those homes sit.
In all, there are some 1,500 tenant farmers working on National Trust land.
So, while romantically-moated Scotney Castle, in Kent, is producing a crop of
paying visitors, the hop fields around it are producing beer. In the same way,
the orchards at 18th-century Killerton House, in Devon, are supplying the raw
materials for cider and chutney, while the deer grazing today beside 17th-
century Belton House, in Lincolnshire, are the much sought-after venison of
tomorrow.
What's more, the National Trust is increasingly directing its gaze out of the
drawing room window and across the fields.
"The countryside is becoming a far more important part of the trust's
portfolio," says Simon Jenkins, the NT's chairman. "For while the threat to
the country's big houses has, for the most part, passed, that's not the case
with our coastline and uplands."
Which means that as well as just issuing entrance tickets to handsome country
houses, the trust is also getting involved in countryside management, financed
in part by charging for rural and coastal car parks.
"We provide parking spaces and visitor centres at many of the best surfing
beaches in Britain, particularly in Devon and Cornwall," says Jenkins. "We've
established ourselves very firmly with the surfing community, and have even
produced a manual on surfboard etiquette!"
But what happens if, unlike the National Trust, you don't happen to have a
nationwide network of subscription-paying members, or a steady stream of
income from car parks? If you're just a farmer, or a small landowner, how can
you even begin the costly business of countryside-conserving? That's where
Natural England comes in.
As well as looking after 4,000 unglamorous but environmentally-important areas
such as the Humberhead Levels, in Yorkshire (rich in peat and bog asphodels),
Natural England operates what's called an Environmental Stewardship Scheme.
Each year, it gives out £400 million of government money to farmers who sign
up to an arrangement whereby they undertake to encourage more birds and
animals, improve water quality and generally promote biodiversity on their
land (pay-outs range from £12-£25 per acre).
Mind you, successfully upping the number of winged visitors to your land is
not just a matter of putting out more birdseed and trousering the grant.
Indeed, the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds runs an entire, 450-acre
farm just outside Cambridge, showing landowners and soil-tillers how best to
boost their bird population.
"We demonstrate how it's possible to grow a good wildlife crop alongside a
good arable crop," says Chris Bailey, the RSPB's project manager at Hope Farm,
in Knapwell. "There are three main things which you need to have in place, in
order to attract farmland birds like the yellowhammer, whitethroat and grey
partridge.
"First, you need to keep some areas uncut during winter, to provide cover and
food. Second, you need to clear patches of bare ground in the middle of your
wheat crop, for the birds to nest in. And third, you need a plentiful supply
of insects during the summer, for the chicks to feed on."
Follow these guidelines, the RSPB tells visiting farmers, and you can triple
the bird population on your land. However, according to author Bill Bryson,
it's not just people who work in the countryside who can improve it, but the
people who drive through it, too.
As well as being a celebrated writer and Brito-phile, Bryson is the president
of the CPRE, in which capacity he has launched an initiative called Stop the
Drop, encouraging people not to leave litter in the countryside.
"Nowhere in the world is there a landscape more lovely to behold, more
comfortable to be in, more artfully worked, more visited and walked across and
gazed upon than the countryside of England," he says. "And nowhere in the
world is there a more unappetising sight than that of car drivers rolling down
their windows to throw out trash.
"In the cities, it gets cleared up, but in the countryside it can sit for
months, or years, on a motorway grass verge or a railway embankment. So we
need people just to hold on to that McDonald's wrapper until they get where
they're going. It would only take a small shift in thinking, but it would have
a big impact on how the countryside looks."
Of course, the biggest problem facing champions of Britain's countryside is
the fact that most people live in towns. Not only do a mere one per cent of
the population work in front-line food growing, but the average Briton is five
generations removed from anyone who has ever worked on the land.
Which means organisations such as the Countryside Alliance have to engage not
just in lobbying the great and good, but in doing missionary work among
Britain's townies, especially the younger generation.
Hence the alliance's annual Connect with the Countryside event, in Sussex, to
which 2,500 schoolchildren come each year (2009 highlight: the sheep-shearing
roadshow). In addition, the CA promotes clay pigeon-shooting for women, helps
inner-city teenagers into rural employment, such as 17-year-old trainee
gamekeeper Harry Mosley, from Vauxhall, and brings the countryside into the
school corridors, by putting on shows such as the Falconry Day, at Treloar
School, in Hampshire (birds soaring through the air at morning assembly).
Nor is the alliance the only organisation interested in catching them young.
Each summer, Leaf (Linking Environment and Farming) holds an Open Farm Sunday
at which 400 farmers tie back their gates and let the public in (listeners to
The Archers will have heard Ruth and David's efforts this year).
In similar vein, the Soil Association has a network of 110 demonstration
farms, offering everything from DIY farm trails to guided school visits to
breadmaking and beekeeping courses. All a far cry from the days when a
farmer's standard reaction to strangers was to unleash the dog.
Another organisation which has taken down the Keep Out signs is the Forestry
Commission, which invites schools not just to come into its woods, but to take
part in rumbustious den-building sessions, using ferns, logs, fallen branches
and anything else to make a forest hideaway.
"The children absolutely love our Forest School Wednesdays," says Kate
Hockley, a teacher at Radwinter Primary School, in rural Essex (total number
of pupils 84). "As a teacher, you get the warm and fuzzy feeling that comes
when you know you're doing something truly worthwhile."
A sensation not unfamiliar to former motor racing star Jody Scheckter, Formula
One world champion in 1979, but for the past 14 years the owner of Laverstoke
Park, a gigantic farm estate in Hampshire, which he runs according to a
pesticide-free, organic-plus code called biodynamics.
Four years ago, Scheckter was listed as having a personal fortune of £90-£100
million (he set up a lucrative firearms simulation training system after
leaving motor racing). Now his bank balance is more commonly quoted at £60
million, thanks to the huge investment he's put into Laverstoke: the farm has
its own abattoir, vineyard and salami-production unit, as well as large herds
of buffalo, wild boar, rare breed pigs, Hereford cattle and Hebridean sheep.
His mozzarella is in 206 Waitrose stores, and his biltong is in both Harrods
and Harvey Nichols, but what he's proudest of, is the purity of his soil.
"Everything - and I can't stress this too strongly - begins with the soil," he
says. "In just one spadeful of soil, there are more living organisms than
there are people on this planet."
And after more than a decade, is the estate making any money? There is a
pause.
"You know, if anything, I should have taken things slower," he replies, in his
characteristically mournful way. "We're trying to do so much here, probably
more than any other estate in the world."
So that's a "no", then. At the same time, though, you can hear the I Did It My
Way satisfaction in his voice, and the same is true for countryside pioneer
Nigel Lowthrope, whose eco-principles have also left him less financially
well-off. Reason being, that, having bought 32 acres of Lincolnshire woodland,
he not only opened up a rural enterprise project on the land, but gave away 22
of those acres in perpetuity, to that selfsame project.
For nine years, Lowthrope and family lived in a caravan on site, and have only
recently moved into their newly built wooden house. Meanwhile, his Hill Holt
Wood project has grown in size, and not only employs 30 people, but trains
scores of socially excluded groups in everything from carpentry to gardening,
from woodcutting to housebuilding. Profits are shared annually, and at no time
is the wage of the chief executive (ie Nigel) to be more than thee times that
of the lowest-paid worker.
"We have created an estate which belongs to the community", says Lowthrope.
"As opposed to the old-fashioned model, whereby one family owns the land, and
everyone is dependent on their paternalism and goodwill."
That said, there are plenty of estates that are still run on more traditional
lines, not least up on the grouse moors of Northumberland and Durham. But
despite having a far wilder and more windblown outer appearance than somewhere
such as Hill Holt Wood, it's still the efforts of individual humans that shape
the land here.
Individuals such as gamekeeper Robert Mitchell, on whose shoulders rests
responsibility for practically the entire grouse-shooting economy around the
Northumbrian village of Blanchland. It's his job to control the wild animals
who prey on his grouse (foxes, crows, stoats, weasels), but not so rigorously
that rabbits run riot and eat all the heather meant for the grouse.
"It's always a balance," says Mitchell. "There's a lot that can go wrong, but
at the end of the day, all you can do is rely on your experience."
No question about it, then; we humans may do our bit to spoil the countryside,
but we do plenty to improve it, too. Take the 791,000 volunteers who, between
them, run some 2,000-plus Wildlife Trusts reserves in their spare time. Or the
heroic Professor Dennis Russell, unpaid chairman of the CPRE's Isle of Wight
Branch, who, in the course of just six years, wrote a total of 1,800 letters
to various local councils and planning authorities.
Oh yes, the champions of the British countryside come in many different forms.
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